Is there any reason to not put anti-seize on full round universals when I put them together?
Also, you are not supposed to put any anti-seize on the tapered part of the tie rod, correct?
Full round yoke anti-seize
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Dino soar, Sep 26, 2019.
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It's fine on the caps.
No on the tierod taper. Clean and dry and torque it. Dont ever back off to align the key.Oxbow, Rounded_nut, jamespmack and 3 others Thank this. -
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Yes for caps, no for tapers.Oxbow, jamespmack, Dino soar and 5 others Thank this. -
I always gave the yoke bores a quick buff with a fine grit flap wheel to take the heavy rust off, antiseized the outside of the caps. I keep antiseize away from tierods. You want a metal to metal contact on that taper.
Oxbow, jamespmack, starmac and 5 others Thank this. -
If you do not antisieze the full rounds and ever have to pull one again, you will regret it. lol
benny906, Heavyd, Oxbow and 1 other person Thank this. -
I've blown the ends of the caps clean off before when they're seized in. Then out comes the carbide burr on a die grinder to save the yoke.
starmac, Heavyd, Oxbow and 1 other person Thank this. -
I'm not a big fan of the full round.
But the yokes were good and I already had put new seals in so it is what it is.
But I will definitely anti-seize then.
I can look at work for the bolts up but if anybody knows that off hand that would be great.
And the bolts get blue Loctite, correct? -
To add, never anti seize U-bolts either. Rust is a friend after you torque them.
Dino soar Thanks this. -
I also have heard people say that they put anti-seize on their shock bolts or on their torque arm bolts, but I don't think that's correct. The mechanics can give their expert advice on that but I think it affects the torque and I think that's just supposed to be lock nuts that lock themselves steel to steel.
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It's fine to antisieze the shank/shoulder of the bolt where it goes through brackets and such. NoNo on threads.
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