Engine Starter, 2010 Cascadia

Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by OneTwentyOne, Oct 2, 2019.

  1. OneTwentyOne

    OneTwentyOne Light Load Member

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    I have searched the forum to see if any has had this problem and have yet to come across the same issue. I hope someone can help me and this thread will help others with the same problem.

    2010 Cascadia, 125, 455hp, 1M miler with starter issues - the starter cranks by itself. This is a recurring problem and have already changed one starter due to it burning out.

    The new starter is a DELCO Remy (3-month old) and this morning while waiting to pick up a load I hear an intermittent knocking sound. I got out to investigate and noticed the starter intermittently cranking the engine.

    I started the engine and the starter would not disengage - it kept cranking even though the engine was running. I turned the engine off (with key) and it kept cranking. So I disengaged the master switch to cut any power to the starter.

    I proceeded to check wires to make sure there were no chaffing or bad grounds, lose connections, etc.. Nothing out of the norm. I cut the wire that connects to the selonoid and switched the master switch back on and obviously the engine did not crank.

    I then took the end of the wire that is connected to the selonoid and jumped the starter with the positive wire on the starter - the engine started and don't have the same symptoms mentioned above.

    Does anyone know or have heard of this problem and if so what am I to look for? I am going to change the relay that is located in the engine bay, Powertrain PDM and fuse to make sure that is okay.

    Any ideas would be appreciated.
     
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  3. buddyd157

    buddyd157 Road Train Member

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    i can't say i ever even heard of this before. and i'd spend some time in the shop having coffee with the mechanics, when they'd be talking about strange things happening.

    you may have checked the wires as you say for chaffing, but how far up into the wire loom did you go?

    how close is the starter in there in relation to say the exhaust pipes?

    is the wire loom (that holds all those wires) far from any excessive heat from the exhaust?

    on some car, trucks, SUVs, there is a type of heat shield to protect the starter, did your truck ever have one, that you are aware of?

    do you maybe have a very slight exhaust leak, where hot exhaust is hitting either the starter or wire loom, and further up into that loom, the wires are melted?

    the ignition switch could be bad, maybe shorted out? and this happens sporadically?

    do you have some sort of anti-theft device, (that gray or black plastic cap) under the dash, that you disconnect so no one can steal your truck? that could be bad.
     
  4. OneTwentyOne

    OneTwentyOne Light Load Member

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    thanks for the reply, I have checked and the wiring is below the exhaust manifold, can't see any melted wires, the funny part about it, is the starter I placed did the same thing, and now 3-months later it is happening again? I don't believe it to be a wire. I am going to change the relay in the engine bay today and change the fuse too. To see if that helps. Now the truck is running perfect, but have to arc the starter to get the engine started.
     
  5. buddyd157

    buddyd157 Road Train Member

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    well it certainly does sound electrical, something is triggering it to happen..yeah, change out the relay with a factory replacement, not something from Pep Boys....if the fuse were to be bad, that would have stopped the electrical flow.
     
  6. OneTwentyOne

    OneTwentyOne Light Load Member

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    Yeah, I'm hoping, for sure.... The relay might be stuck closed and providing a steady flow of electricity to the solenoid. thanks.
     
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  7. QUALITYTRUCK

    QUALITYTRUCK Road Train Member

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    Water damage to Sam cab from leaking passenger side windshield.
     
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  8. OneTwentyOne

    OneTwentyOne Light Load Member

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    I keep that area dry, and just went ahead and pulled the glove box, there is no indication of water, rust or water trails anywhere. As usual, I cleaned the plastic cover of all the dust, no water spots what so ever.

    I did note that there are two relays for the ignition, R7, and R8. In addition, one fuse, F24 that has anything to do with the ignition system - will change those as well. I prefer to do my due diligence before having an electrician attempt to catch a gremlin, could get out of control. thank you for your reply.
     
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  9. Mike250rs

    Mike250rs Heavy Load Member

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    Keep ruling out the obvious..

    Test light the ignition switch, then chase wiring to see it there is any bleed over from the starting circuit.
     
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  10. OneTwentyOne

    OneTwentyOne Light Load Member

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    will do, I can't believe this - just gave her a top latch, CAC bleed down test and turbo looksy to make sure she performs well - the engine is, its the other components that are driving me insane... LOL
     
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  11. mhyn

    mhyn Road Train Member

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    you need a new sam cab. it's very well known issue.
     
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