cat c12,
I always felt there was a flaw with 2 piece. my one piece never gave me trouble. Whoever dropped the trans last put antiseize on all the bellhousing bolts. Why did they do that? I read from someone else on the forums to put clutch on trans first. Will i easily be able to get to the bolts through the handhole and torque to spec?
I hear you about sound travel through driveline
Eaton 18 speed play in gears
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Collie, Oct 5, 2019.
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i assume, ill have to bar the engine over to install and torque the bolts on clutch if i do it that way? I do have a barring socket for when i do the valves
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Yep just slide the clutch onto the input shaft. Just make sure you put the discs and intermediate plate on the correct way. And make sure the clutch forks are on the right side of the release bearing. If you haven't, I'd give the fork and cross shaft bushings a good inspection and pop in a new pilot bearing.
And yes, you will need to bar it over to get all the bolts installed. They're pretty easy to access with an extension through the inspection hole.pushbroom, Oxbow, Collie and 1 other person Thank this. -
Ill be installing new rear main seal, flywheel and pilot bearing.Rideandrepair and Oxbow Thank this. -
I generally bar it over to start all the clutch bolts, then a couple more times, instead of tightening one set of bolts all the way down, if that makes sense..
Rideandrepair, pushbroom and Collie Thank this. -
Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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how about antiseize on the input shaft splines? It was a little tough getting the trans out of the bellhousing when pulling it out
Oxbow Thanks this. -
Leave the input dry. All antiseize does is make a mess.
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Thread update for those that enjoy progress updates.
Quick question before i let you know what i ordered today.
MY caterpillar manual tells me to use Bearing mount compound 7M-7456 for the flywheel bolts and rear main seal bolts. I assume thats just loctite, but what number loctite should i use?
Second, i forgot to take notice where flywheel was positioned when i removed it, i need it to be aligned correctly so i can utilize the TDC hole on the new one obviously.
So anyhow, i was poking around under truck and noticed my clutch return spring and clutch linkage was on its last leg. Glad the linkage didnt come apart on the road. I have no dam idea how you could even get to these components on a 379 without removing tans. IT is nice working under truck with trans removed. The motor mounts were seized in the sleeves and a mess. So it was easy to get those out with heat and air chisel. Brake foot valve easy as hell to get to under there, so thats getting replaced as well. All else looks good under there. Thats the beuty of doing this myself. Nothing getting overlooked by shop apes right.
So anyhow, heres my parts order list today at peterbilt. everything should be in by tomorrow or next day.
Eaton reman rtlo 18918b trans
2000 pound torque clutch
bellhousing gasket
cross shaft bushings
clutch install kit
New flywheel
Rear main seal
Brake foot vlave kit ( comes with new valve, pedal base and pedal and gasket)
Clutch linkage
Clutch return spring
Should be a hefty bill but hey, truck should feel real good and ill be happy,
The parts guys are pretty cool and original qouted me 5300 for the trans but got me down to 4800 bucks.
Oh maybe let me know what else to look for under my truck while trans is out. couldnt think of anything else other than look for leaky fuel lines or damaged electricalRideandrepair Thanks this.
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