Leave the cap off. Raise the idle to 1000 or higher. Get the coolant close to temp. Top off. Put cap back on. Drive. Recheck when it cools back down.
This time of year 160 should be good without releasing pressure when you take the cap off.
Burping a radiator, question
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by feldsforever, Jan 13, 2020.
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Thank you everyone, I will work on this over the next couple days and report back any progress.
Honestly I don't think it needs to be burped. But its a long storey. Will fill on the blanks as the week goes on. -
I posted Detroit’s instructions on burping the coolant system here (comment #12):
Engine Running and No Coolant Cap (Safe?)feldsforever Thanks this. -
I've always taken the top heater hose off when refilling a radiator from empty. Then all the air left in the engine is at the top of the head.
feldsforever and mtoo Thank this. -
I know this goes agin all protocol, but what about taking a small propane torch and warm the thermostat housing? That'll open 'er up.
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Have gallons (Plural) of fresh fluid ready to add on as she approaches 180 or whatever you consider to be a working going down the road temperature. Since it is a function of how much pressure you can impose on the system it may not be very ... forthcoming with that hotwater.
At some point your big temperature check valves should open. Thats when you either puke out alot of fluid, add more until all the air bubbles have gone bye bye. I used to puke my old radiators all the time but it's been so long that I am not sure if you can get a computer truck to accept that the system has no pressure on it just yet because you left the cap off on purpose. -
Update:
After months of my boss putting time and money into the cooling system. I believe at least for now. All of the leaks have been fixed.
On the other hand. I Usally keep it on the cold full level. After cracking the lid each morning to vent it. I noticed the big hose on the passenger side is more often than not vacuumed in.
In the morning, with a cold engine the level is between cold full and cold minimum. If I top it off, to where I normally keep it. Will it stop this. Or should I tell the boss. There is still something up? Question regarding the vaccumed line.Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
do as i suggested, drive the steers up on some wooden boards, to raise the front end a few inches. the air trapped inside will stay there, since the truck is on "level" ground. you need to raise the front end to allow the air bubble to get up to the top and get out.
also, look for bleeder valves on the top of the engine, like at or near the thermostat. follow all the coolant lines for bleeder screws.
some idea on what and where they may be located.
Last edited: Jan 24, 2020
x1Heavy, D.Tibbitt, feldsforever and 2 others Thank this. -
Something just doesn't sound right. Like I say, in all my years, I don't ever remember having to bleed a system of air, unless something else is causing the air lock. Maybe a pin hole in a head gasket, forcing pressure into the system.
x1Heavy, feldsforever, Rideandrepair and 1 other person Thank this. -
Bad radiator cap, will cause the hose to collapse like that.
x1Heavy, feldsforever and Swine hauler Thank this.
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