how in the hell

Flip the side splitter to the low range, lift off the fuel, then bring the rpms back up and lift off the fuel again. If I remember it right. If you gotta move the stick, move the side splitter to the high range, and downshift just like a regular ten speed. Again, if I remember it right. Been a few years since I dealt with one.

 

I believe you flip to low side let off gas revit up and once rpms come up it will engage on its own. Then to go down to the next you flip slector to high side and move gear shift as normal. I dont think you have to let off the second time as was explained in previous post.

 

I skip half on the way down unless I downshifting to pull a grade. I let the rpms drop to 1200 in 10 pull the switch to low let off then bump to 1600. Then I don't touch the switch again, just let it drop to 1000 then hit a lower hole. The last super 10 I drove was a messed up top 2 model. If you left the switch in high it would pop out on the way down and leave you floating.

 

You downshift a super10 the same way you downshift an 18speed or 13 speed.

10th.brake. thumb switch back blip (throttle). 9th.brake.thumb switch foward.blip. stick straight foward.8th.brake.thumb switch back.blip.7th.brake thumb switch foward.blip. stick backwards and left 1 notch.6th.brake.thumb switch back.blip.5th.brake.
thumb switch foward.blip.stick straight foward.4th.brake.thumb switch backwards.blip.3rd.brake.thumb switch foward.blip.stick back and far left as you go.2nd.brake.thumb switch back.blip. 1st gear.

 

Go to youtube.com and look for "Jake Brake of Doom II" for an alternative version.

 

I dont like the Top2 thingie either. I drove a truck with a "9speed top2". It was actually a 10 speed with 9th and 10th shifting automatically. When it works, its decent. When it breaks, or in my case, the company beancounters had the trucks castrated and cut down, you lose your most important highway pulling gear (the one with the 1:1 ratio)

MAJOR SUCKAGE!