I am trying to trace an air leak
Its 2009 kw t660
When i I push the tractor brake valve sometimes "P" on the dash still on and i clearly hear leak behind the dash . Takes several times to pull out and push in for sign to disappear and stop hearing the leak . Later on i pulled into rest area to check it and when i stopped i pulled only trailer brakes out and tractor left pushed , shut the truck down and heard some leak still , disassembled dash and noticed where its leaking ( marked tractor brakes ) , as soon as i i pulled out tractor brakes - it stopped . Can anyone advise whether its part that leaks has to be replaced or its its indicates that there is somewhere else leak . I circled the part in yellow
Air leak behind panel
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by pavrom, Apr 25, 2020.
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Not sure about that KW but I have replaced a few of those switches on my Freightliner. The usually start leaking around the post where the wires plug in.
You should be able to unplug the 2 wires and the sensor should just screw out with a wrench. At least that's how mine work.
Pump your air pressure down before you take it out.Last edited: Apr 25, 2020
Dave_in_AZ and pavrom Thank this. -
Kinda hard to tell but it looks like a pressure switch.
whoopNride Thanks this. -
Found a picture. This is what mine looks like once you get it out. $15 each. I have 5 or 6 in my truck, I carry a spare just in case.
Yours look different, but should screw out.Dave_in_AZ and pavrom Thank this. -
If it looks like a pressure switch wiggle the line going to it. The seal is probably worn out. Pretty reasonable repair not to hard to do
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Sometimes the buttons on parking brake leaks, before they go bad. Try moving the buttons back and forth, up and down, after you push them in. Any difference in the leak, Parking brake valves on its way out. As far as the other leaks, welcome to my world. The quick connects on everything seem to go bad. Sometimes a fresh cut on the air lines, and re install, fixes it. Otherwise a perfectly good switch, for fifth wheel, or differential locks,dump valve, has to be replaced. Because of the quick connect. I’d like to do away with them. Thread a fitting into their place, add a compression fitting. Easier/ Quicker to just change the switches.
pavrom Thanks this. -
You do know you can change the oring in those quick connects?Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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had no idea. Thanks, have to check that out, I got plenty of o rings. -
Pull the end of the quick connect out with some needle nose pliars. Take a dental pick (paper clip will work) and dig the oring out. Replace with a new one, put end back. I have had real good luck repairing them instead of replacing valve
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
I stopped by the dealer today and bought this switch , replaced it and the leak is completely gone ...but another problem popped up : when i was out of the truck i noticed my brake lamps were on , tried to move - nope .. my buddy mentioned that it might be brake valve because i was pumping the air out ... 1 min of playing here and there and all seems to be good ... Came back 2 hours later - brake lamps on and probably pads locked ... Didn't play it due to the rain ... Will try to figure tomorrowRideandrepair Thanks this.
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