Trailer Issues

Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by calstefanko, Jul 20, 2020.

  1. calstefanko

    calstefanko Bobtail Member

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    Jul 20, 2020
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    Hey everyone, I joined the page to maybe get an answer to my trailer problem. I’m deliver loads of hay on a tri-axle flatbed gooseneck (22’+5’ dovetail), I hauled all last year with no issues at all with the trailer, this past February I re-packed all the bearings. From the start of June until now I’ve had nothing but trouble with the bearings on this trailer. I was hauling close to max load on this trailer at the start of June and as I’ve had problems I’ve gone down on the weight I carry just to save a headache and still I’m having problems with the bearings overheating. I’ve had 2 bearings go out since June. I’ve gone down on weight 4,000lbs and still have problems. All my loads are spread equally weight wise. The common trend I’ve noticed is all the bearing problems are on the passenger side of the trailer, the last load I hauled the entire passenger side was hot and would get to the point of almost overheating and the driver side would be lukewarm. Keep in mind these loads are balanced out and the last load I even transferred more weight to the driver side and they still over heated. What could this problem be? Slope of the road is the only thing I can think of and how can I prevent this, no one else seems to be able to come up with anything and I am going to buy a new trailer here soon if these problems keep occurring. Thanks in advance!
     
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  3. daf105paccar

    daf105paccar Road Train Member

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    Grease or hub oil?
    New bearings fitted?
    Are you shure the bearings aren't to tight or to loose?
    Which brakes?
    Disk or drum?
    Which tires?
    Pressures checked?
    Same brand off tires on both sides?
    Did you use a temperature gun?
    Is the airflow the same on both sides?
    Toolbox on either side?
     
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  4. Casper88

    Casper88 Bobtail Member

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    If it has trailer brakes, I would check that side isn't dragging causing the grease to overheat compromising the bearings. Or the opposite trailer makes aren't working and that side is getting overheated from doing to much work
     
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  5. calstefanko

    calstefanko Bobtail Member

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    Jul 20, 2020
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    Grease, yes new bearings fitted, next two I couldn’t answer, Drum brakes, different brands of tires, tire pressures are all good, didn’t use temp gun, not sure what the airflow question means, and no toolbox on either side, I’m pretty green when it comes to trailers.
     
  6. calstefanko

    calstefanko Bobtail Member

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    Jul 20, 2020
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    I’ll have to check that out. These trips I’m making are around 4 hours round trip and I have to stop a few times just to let them cool to be on the safe side
     
  7. daf105paccar

    daf105paccar Road Train Member

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    Airflow.............is there anything different between the 2 sides that could influence the cooling?

    Get a temperature gun.
    measure tires ,drums and hub caps .
    Do it empty and loaded.
    Loaded i would do it after 5,15 and 30 min driving.
    It will build a picture off where the heat is coming from.
     
  8. thejudges69

    thejudges69 Light Load Member

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    You need to check the preload on the bearings. Are you packing the bearings before install? Are you filling the hub cavity with grease? Sounds to me like the bearings are to tight and they aren't packed enough. Also, what are you using for grease? Is it a quality GC-LB grease? Some greases are thinner than others and will start to break down with heat and not give you good wear properties. Try repacking the bearings with a thicker grease, make sure your torque on the axles is correct. What axles are in it? Dexter? Is it a dual wheel or single wheel trailer? What bearings are you using? Name brand? Chinese imports? Are you changing the cone and the bearing or just the bearing?
     
  9. calstefanko

    calstefanko Bobtail Member

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    Jul 20, 2020
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    I honestly couldn’t answer the first few, I had someone work on the bearings for me. I know he used the right grease. It’s single wheel trailer with Dexter Axles, bearings are whatever the local trailer place stocks and I’m not sure what they are. Changed the bearing race and the bearing
     
  10. clausland

    clausland Road Train Member

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    Not sure how you did it, but this is how I was taught. Disassemble the hub, remove both inner & outer bearings, visually check for wear. If they look good, run them through the parts washer, clean 'em good and blow then blow them clean with compressed air. Strongly resist the temptation to spin them at 6,000 rpms, don't do it. Inspect them again, if good, pack them by hand by putting a big gob of good quality high temp grease in the palm of your hand. With the other hand holding the bearing force the grease up through the rollers until it comes out the top, rotate until each bearing is fully packed. Clean off the spindle and remove the old seal from the hub, replace your inner bearing and install new oil seal. Liberally apply grease to the spindle. Re-assemble, tighten spindle nut until seated and then back it off 1/2 a turn. Spin the wheel some more, both ways, re-seat spindle nut again and then again back it off 1/2 turn, check for excessive play or binding, and if good replace cotter pin and cap.

    What cap are your axles, 3500, 7000? Round bales or square, what's your weight vs trailer capacity?
     
  11. thejudges69

    thejudges69 Light Load Member

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    This solely sounds like an installation error. Without being able to answer most of the important questions it's hard to go further. How can you say they use a good grease? I'm going with the bearings are to tight. If you continue then you could damage the spindle. Put the trailer in the air on your own with a jack and spin the wheel. Being the bearings are now worn in, it should spin with little resistance. If it takes force, your to tight, remove the caps and back the spindle nuts off an 1/8th of a turn at a time, no more. You don't want them to loose, then grab the tire outside edges and check for excessive wheel play and reinstall the cotter pin and cap. And even at this point, if they are to tight, it's possible that the bearings have lost some of their temper and will need replaced again.l, but this will help narrow the problem. I'd assume that it won't matter, loaded or empty but the heat will continue to rise. There will be a temperature difference on loaded and empty, but I bet it will still be hot when empty..
     
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