T680 Exhaust Questions...

Discussion in 'Kenworth Forum' started by 7milesout, Jun 3, 2020.

  1. 7milesout

    7milesout Bobtail Member

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    Lysdexis - No offense intended, but quoting from Bill Lundberg (Office Space) … Uh, yeah. I'm going to have to go ahead and sort of disagree with ya there. In my past, I was an engineering nerd. An automotive engineering nerd. Lots of math, lots of spreadsheets. I'd have to say I've probably put as many miles on vehicles as you. Not only OTR but on test tracks with 4 wheelers, etc. But in my own personal vehicles as well. And even in a lightweight 4 wheeler with a sewing machine sounding engine made for mpg, the difference in mpg between 62 mph and 70 mph is noticeable. Throw in 39 more tons and a huge arse barn door for a front end (even with a T680, compared to a little crapper car) and the mpg percentage difference between 62 mph and 70 mph is going to be measurable. Much more measurable. The proof is in the limitations placed on some, maybe most fleet trucks. They don't limit them JUST for safety, but to conserve fuel, since it is a HUGE expense.

    Have you ever heard of the RoadRanger "Top 2" variation of the 18 speed? As long as it was reliable (so few of them out there, I don't know), it would be the ultimate transmission. The "Top 2" automatically changes between both o/d ratios (8L & 8H) depending on conditions. That would be awesome.

    It works, and theoretically would work out like this. With the 3.08 diff, a truck would run up to about 58-59 mph in 7H (1 to 1, or direct drive) at 1,500 rpm. Leaving it in the high split, a lever shift to 8th places that transmission into "AUTO" mode. After engaging in 8th, the driver leaves the stick and splitter switch alone. The transmission automatically enters 8th gear in 8L (regardless of split button position being forward). The auto shift goes to 8L at about 1,290 rpm and the vehicle accelerates to (whatever speed the driver wants), but in this case, let's say 62 mph. The trans then auto-shifts to 8H at say 62 mph and the cruise control is set at 62 mph and about 1,160 rpm.

    Let's say the truck is on flat level ground. It will cruise at that 1,160 rpm and should knock out some really great mpg. If it pulls even a mild grade, and the speed drops more than preferred, the "Top 2" transmission would auto shift to 8L to help pull the grade. If you ask me, there is no better scenario in class 8 trucks, than the "Top 2" 18 speed RoadRanger.

    The manual suggests leaving the splitter switch in H position, because if there is a need to go back to 7th, because most of the time it would be most convenient to go back to 7H. Moving the lever to any other location than 8th ends the auto shift function.

    Lower speed wind drag (62 mph compared to 70 mph) plus low rpm, in a smaller displacement engine should yield some impressive mpg. And yes, I WOULD be pinching every penny because a) I'd rather have those pennies to spend on my sons versus b) giving those pennies to a truck stop (for fuel). And I whole heartedly agree with you regarding your sentiment on hauling cheap freight. I will have a threshold and hope to only ever consider dropping (slightly) below it, only on a haul back to the home area when there are few other options.

    7milesout
     
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  3. Lysdexis

    Lysdexis Road Train Member

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    I of course don't mean to sound condescending nor tell you how to spend your money. I'm just speaking from experience irl running these trucks.

    In theory yes running lower rpms does net you better mileage but from my experience there is too low of an rpm to run at which is causing the engine to work hard just to maintain speed and that doesn't help economy. This has to do with engine load. Say at 62mph turning 1200rpm and engine load is at 30% vs the same road speed but higher rpm of say 1400rpm and engine load drops to 20%. That lower engine load should return you better economy because the engine isn't working as hard.

    Its always a trade off between pulling power and economy.

    If it were me I'd be looking for a truck with 3.55s. I'd hate for you to buy one with high rears only to wish 6 months down the road you'd went with a lower rear gear for better pulling power.

    Like I said this is all my personal experience with these engines, the auto in my current truck should in theory get the most mileage possible but its rare I get above 5.4mpg which to me isn't all that great imo considering I've got an 01 international with a 370hp n14 10 speed 3.73 rears and 11r22.5s that gets the same mileage and a friend with a 98 w900 with a 450hp 3406e cat 18 speed 3.42 rears on 11r24.5s that turns 6mpg. Hand calculated. I understand the engineering theory and in perfect conditions they'll get great mileage and all that but in the real world working every day they dont do that great. Which also depends on driving style and all that but the auto is supposed to shift like the best driver on his best day every shift and its just not that simple. If it were these auto trucks with the high ratio rears should be getting astronomical mpg but in my experience they don't.

    Just food for thought.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2020
  4. 7milesout

    7milesout Bobtail Member

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    I hear ya. Sure would be nice if the dealer with this one particular truck I "like" (on paper) would let me rent it, long enough to haul some heavy loads for a week or two. To see what I think about … well, everything. Comfort, driver satisfaction, efficiency, power, etc. They might … for a mint.
     
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  5. Lysdexis

    Lysdexis Road Train Member

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    Your best course of action would be to ask around. Talk to guys that run similar setups to what you're looking for and see what they say.
     
  6. Lysdexis

    Lysdexis Road Train Member

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    This is actually the best economy I've been able to get. VideoCapture_20200610-230958.jpg
     
  7. Accidental Trucker

    Accidental Trucker Road Train Member

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    The term we're discussing is driveability. I run an Mx13 with 3.25's in the PNW with up to 87K GVW. It works about perfect. It needs to be in that 13 to 1500 RPM power band to pull hills with weight on. On flat ground, you can lug it around, but driveability is poor. Reaction to giving it the pedal is freakishly slow.
     
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  8. dagalbraith

    dagalbraith Bobtail Member

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    I run a 680 with the mx-13 and a 13 speed. I can tell you unequivocally that 1000 or 1100 or even 1200 rpm... its NOT gonna cut it going down the road. I have had this engine at both factory 455hp/1650tq and now at 540hp/1800tq. Come to your own conclusion how that came to be. Doesn't matter which power setting tho, the MX13 does not drive well at all in low r's. I've got a 3.25 ratio and run LP22.5. At 1450rpm I am running about 70mph. At 1400 it's about 67-68. I'll run it down to about 63 in 13th but then split down because I'm running under 1200rpm if I slow any further. This engine pulls the strongest from about 1350-1600. That's my opinion and my experience.

    As far as exhaust. I had a factory weed burner. At factory settings, you couldn't even hear the exhaust hiss... just sounded "windy" when revved. When we "trialed" the straight exhaust from 5" to 7", it makes a noticeable difference. It is not loud tho... like not at all. Under heavy acceleration, it growls really nicely. At cruise you hear a lot of turbo hiss. Jake's sound like a closed-mouth burp. Originally we intended to put on vertical stacks behind the cab, but with the trial of sound factors, we elected to add in a 36" x 7" SS tip under the frame to replace the burner box. These trucks aren't big hood rigs... being "cool" or "stylish" is a rather unlikely feat to conquer. I went for personalization and preference. I don't draw attention, but I can out pull any 'similar looking' mx13 with ease. These engines are mini power houses. I have always been a Cat and Detroit fan, but these engines are starting to gain my respect.
     
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  9. retlow8

    retlow8 Light Load Member

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    I have a T680, Cummins, Allison tranny, back window, and dual stacks. Coffin sleeper.
     
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