Driving the big-rigs in snow and ice

Other than being a white knuckle experience, I am hoping some of you veteran drivers can answer these questions.

1. Is there a pre-determined distance you should follow another truck in ice and snow? I know there's a lot of factors involved, grade, wind, location, but on an average, what distance do you give another vehicle I. E. tractor/trailer in inclement weather.

2. Any manuals, safety books or other safety materials that may describe the safe distance to bring a tractor/trailer to a stop without a crash from behind on ice and snow?

 

yea i usually shutdown if i dont feel comfortable but even in the rain im far back atleast a truck length behind cars and a little further if possible from trucks thats just me. Im not experienced as i only have 4 months otr and 4 months in the oilfields.

 

It sure is annoying to follow a car with its 4-ways on in fog - You never know when the driver applies his brakes, and the flashing is disorienting. Makes me want to turn on my high-beams . . .

 

###### aint that the truth man.

As far as the snow question, my trainer had me double my following distance. I don't know that this is the right answer, but between an increased following distance, and not overdriving the conditions/your comfort level it should give you a little more time to act. If you're reacting then you've already lost the advantage you are wanting to keep.

 

Here's the deal...

You have to leave enough space to bring the rig to a halt without hitting anything or jacknifing in the process. Can't be using your jake, cruise control will get you in trouble fast and you can't brake hard. Heavy GVW is good... you can stop quicker than pulling an empty. If you feel the rig starting to break loose, the only thing you can do to get the skidding wheels to start turning again is to speed up. So you see the problem... if you're starting a skid or jacknife (doesn't matter whether it's the steers, drives or tandems) the only way out is to get off of the brakes... more speed. But if you're at that point, its because you need a lot less speed NOW! That means you're screwed.

The faster you're going, the more space you have to leave... at least double what you'd do on dry pavement, but more is better. Using the Smith System, you leave 8 seconds between you and the next vehicle on dry pavement. But that's not a hard and fast rule. It really depends on how bad the road really is - and you can't tell until you've actually tried to stop, so a little braking test every now and then isn't a bad idea. Be really careful passing, and as a rule, you're better off just taking what the next guy is doing. Passing a slower rig, and then pulling into his defensive driving space without giving the guy you passed some room in case you get in trouble really sucks... it means you're a wheel-holder.

Turn lanes, exit ramps and surfaces that aren't traveled regularily are going to be in worse shape than the main travel lanes, so count on it in advance. Curves are bad because you need more grip to make the turn. Areas that are in shade during the day are more likely to have ice, as are low spots. Fog can sublimate onto the road surface and go directly from water vapor to ice at the right temperature and air pressure. If you're already on one of these problem surfaces and going too fast, its too late. Getting off of the big road means you need to slow down well before you get to the exit. Downhill grades add to the problem. If I see even a slight slope, I'm multiplying everything by 4... the steeper the grade the more chicken I get.

Did Holiday on ice and packed snow, and still snowing. We were 78,000 lbs that night. The jake was disengaged, good tread, no chains. The way the ol' timers used to do it was to gear way down and go really slow... only the lightest application of brakes to control any speed gain. I think I did sixth all the way down on a 10-speed direct drive. Fifth might have been a better option. Once you're established on the down-grade, you have to take it wherever the transmission is at. Don't even think about dropping another gear once you're started down... you may not be able to get back in gear again. That means you're dead, but you just haven't gotten there yet.

Black ice is the worst of the deal... you usually don't know its there until you're on it. As long as there is spray coming off of your wheels and the vehicles in front of you in your lane... it's still water. Spray stops - its ice. Looking in the rear-view and seeing a "wet road" when the surface in front of you isn't wet is another key. I watch the outside temp pretty close on wet roads too... 32 is usually ok - by the time its dropped to 28, there will be ice... if not its forming soon. You can usually anticipate it a little... pay attention to your arse. You'll feel a little "micro-skid" as it starts to happen... thats one wheel starting to break loose a little.

If you've got an internet connection, make sure you check the weather before you start - and remember, the weatherman is a worse liar than the used truck salesman. Pay attention to the chatter on the CB... drivers have a habit of letting people know when things are starting to get really bad. But still, the best thing to do is be a chicken and slow down early and turn on the 4-ways. Especially your first winter, drive really conservatively until you get this figured out. Let the hot-rodders fly down the road and let 'em call ya names. You'll be passing those hammer-lane cowboys soon... in the ditch, jack-knifed or rolled-over. Better to be called "chicken" or something like that, than "dead."

 

This seems like some really good advice. I know I read somewhere that when your in positions where you need to make a decision like driving on Ice it said clearing to NOT, NO WAY, No How to, allow your self to slowly pull off the road and wait until it's safe. Of course you very seldom see this happening until it's too late in most cases.

Slippery surface driving: It will take you longer to stop and it will be harder for you to turn without skidding when the road is slippery. You must drive slower to be able to stop in the same distance as on dry roads. Wet roads can double your stopping distance. Reduce your speed from 55 to 35 on wet roads. This is equal about one third your speed. On packed snow, reduce your speed by a half or more. (65 equals 35 on snow covered roads)

Good luck,

 

This will be my first winter driving also and I appreciate all you guys info here.Very good info if followed.

 

Goodmorning, this what i did, the first thing is call your dispacth, tell em the loads gonna need anthor apt date,after you stopped at rest area too call, then i start too slow down and go slow, i dont care about those hot rod cowboys, , i'm going slow they can pass me if they want or not, i got my 4 ways on and i know were i'm going, i never ever ran chains, although certain states they have too be on the truck by law, so they were in sidebox, i always carry my bag of 25 pounds of cat litter , before i back down a steep dock i sprinkle lots around first, i seen and wacthed many drivers go down en bang into other drivers trls by sliding on the ice,an legaly thats a accident, but i carryed that bag with me, even pulling in too refill your thermos, the hot tires would sink in the soft 3 inches of ice as i called it so out goes my kitty litter and away i go , then a $500 tow bill, but yes driving in winter is fun, you just have too pay attion too your surroundings Everett.

 

Adjustments on your brakes CAN have a huge impact on winter driving conditions. Also the weight distribution in the trailer. There are many factors involved. Following distances is the number 1 factor in sooooo many accidents. Also stay in the tracks of the vehicle in front of you - helps.