APU Info

Thanks Burky for the advice. I’m just an old guy who anticipates buying an old (1999-2001) truck for someone else. I think I will have enough time to see it gets into good shape.
The APU I can probably do mostly myself without too much help.
It will give an old retired 80 year old something to think about and do. Any advice is always appreciated. Happy Holidays to all.

 

A 5500 watt unit is pretty large. In a gasoline powered unit, it's going to suck down some fuel. If you check out a good catalog like Northern Hydraulics, you will find a lot of the smaller motor homes use a 2800 watt unit, which will power them quite nicely. Check how much power your cooling unit will need, because usually this is the device that pulls the most power. A heating setup pulls less power and runs on less wattage. So you could probably get by with 3000 watts of power if you plan out your needs.

One tip for mounting any cooling or heating system on the truck. Do not skimp on the quality of the power cord going to the unit, and ensure that it is well mounted where it will not rub through. One of the main causes of RV fires is the loads put on the power cords. So get a heavier cord than the specs call for, mount it so it isn't rubbing against anything that will harm it, and ensure that where it passes through into the box that you use good rubber grommets.

 

I’ll probably run a semi permanent service into the truck with a small breaker box and enough outlets for things that will be plugged in. Any wire through metal will have suitable grommets. No extension cords.
I chose the Champion 5500 because it has a 6.5 gal tank, estimated run time of 15 hrs. price $550 with free shipping. Plan to remove wheels, and reinforce the frame around the unit with well-ventilated lite enclosure as needed for attachment to the truck. May have to make canvas or plastic cover for traveling to keep it clean. We will see. Likely overkill, but that’s how I usually do things. The whole thing will be done, say under $750-800.
Thanks again for your advice. Any one else have any comments? All suggestions are appreciated. Surprised no has said my ideas are dumb.

 

Since that is a gravity feed fuel tank, make sure that it has a high quality shutoff valve between the tank and the engine. If you simply leave the fuel on, then you are looking at depending on a small float valve to prevent the fuel from flooding the engine, or worse, spilling out with expensive repercusssions. Even though it evaporates, gasoline is considered a hazardous material to spill if someone wants to get nasty about it. Thise generators are pretty noisy. so get a good muffler set up for it, and run the exhaust where fumes from it won't get sucked into the truck. Upwards, parallel to your truck's exhaust is best, but I have never been in favor of combining the exhaust with the stack on the truck.

Either an oil filled or silocone filled heater should be best for a sleeper. In every issue of Mother Earth News, there is an ad for silicone filled heaters that can be mounted at baseboard level, and they won;t take up much room that way.

 

Ok after thinking about it, I think a 3500 generator will be more than sufficient. As far as heating, am thinking of a heat/ac unit combined (AP410HS seems to have the best rating). Unit is approx 15 inches square by 30 inches hi.
Find that block heaters can be had with rather low wattage (400 watts for a magnetic unit suitable for a tractor). Am wondering if permanent wiring should be installed, so the block heater can be hooked up to run when the generator runs? Say, connect it in Nov or Dec and disconnect it in March or April. That way wouldn't have to mess with cords.
Sincerely appreciate all previous advice. Thanks again

 

The odds are that a 400 watt block heater is not going to be big enough to have a reasonable effect on a large truck. With the bigger metal mass of the engine, the larger quantities of fluids like cooland and oil, the smaller heating unit probably won;t work. However, it is extremely rare notto fina a block heater already installed on the truck, and it usually has an outlet located near the drivers door where it can be plugged into a standard 110 socket via an extension cord. the easist way to handle this is to make up a cords of appropriate length with a male plug at the generator end and a female plug at the truck socket end. just run it under the cab, wire tying it up out of the way of the exhust or any obstructions or crush points. Plug that in as needed when the generator is running. Then the generator just operates the trucks installed heater unit. As long as you aren;t trying to heat a frozen engine, the warmth from the engine from running will lessen the electrical load on the heating unit, and it won;t require too much electrical power. With a heater running in the truck at max power (1500 watts) and the block heater at max power (1000) you still have 1000 watts available for the interior stuff. And the loads will not be constant on the heater or the block heater, so you should still have power to spare. You might have to unplug the heater for time using a microwave, (500-900) but that's only a few minutes at worst.

 

i just got a flyer from LCT today in the mail. They have been trying to recruit me for a wile now, probably going on 6 months. Anyway They're out of Florida, Okahumpka to be exact. and inside there flyer it says "APU's being added to fleet" I guess this is gonna be there new selling point for drivers.

 

Well, I’m back to thinking about at least a 5000 Watt generator as I’m now thinking diesel. Probably be $1100 to $1500 or so with shipping.
Don’t think there is anything available that’s not made in China like most of the stuff truckers now haul. Oh well.
Still think a low wattage block heater would be desirable in addition to a 1000 watt block heater. The time I spent in Regina, Saskatchewan years ago, it was surprising how little it took to keep an engine warm vice warming up a cold one. Think maybe a 400 watt heater could be used constantly when the weather is not too severe. Will have sufficient capacity. Will give me something to tinker with anyway.
Thanks for the advice about the insurance. Will probably call the insurance co. before starting any project. Give them something to do.
Wonder what percent of O/O's have APU's?

 

Start prowling Ebay and find a used Yamaha or Kubota diesel generator. They are out there, you just have to look aggressively to find them.

 

For those of you on a shoe string budget here are a few suggestions for you

Here is a super cheap out fit.

For power you can get a Champion 4000 watt gas generator from shuck for only $300

For heat get your self a 240 volt 4,000 watt electric heater $165

For summer you get your self a Window Air conditioner for $50
(slide it out your sleepr door)

Total parts $515 / Labor $300? = $815

How ever keeping generator filled with gas is a major pain


I think the next step up would me a good in between the good $7,000 - $10,000 APU's and the $515 version

4500 watt diesel generator with enclosed case and wireless remote start $2139
http://www.generatorsales.com/order/inc/invoice...ge=HPS4000XDSE_RS

Then if you want heating and cooling I would add a dometic HVAC system ($1200 installed ?)
That is what many APU's use. http://www.dometictruck.com/aahselfcont.php

If all you want is heat go with the 240 volt 4000 watt heater for $165

Estimated total parts and labor: $3,339 or $2739 w/o A/C

Either way can't beat the price.