Sleeper insulation?

Also the spray insulation ( polyurethane foam) gets very hot when setting up, have seen it almost ignite on some things so be careful when spraying. Also is combustible

 

Some of that spray foam keeps expanding for weeks. The soft stuff fir fours and windows would be best. Truck supply sells it in cans for reefer repairs. Not sure the exact properties. The Van Life videos are good. One product, a thin layer of reflective foil, is real good. Must have a gap to work. Breaks the thermal transfer of heat. I need to do mine. I’m thinking of a combination, of that, and thick foam board on ceiling, since it’s a condo, lots of room up there. Most heat comes from the roof. Mine is cool till I stand up on the bed, to look through shelves. Heat rises, but I think most of it comes from the sun, and stays up there.

 

The problem I see with the foam is the months of it gassing off in such a confined space if you are immediately going back OTR within a week of spray foaming.

Stuff is amazing at heat blockage. My buddy just did his 50 by 100 Quansithut down here in Florida to the tune of 17 grand .

Outside of building is 180 all day in the sun. Inside the a/c barely runs keeping it at 75.

I think I am starting with a light colored roof and than pull down the interior panels and see what I have to work with.

 

Look into LizardSkin

 

W

hen I did food service, it was common to spray a windowless van, usually covered with 1/4” plywood. I’d deliver fresh meat and seafood in the heat of summer. With A/C on. Sometimes delivering lukewarm meat. Customer was not happy. During heatwaves, dry ice and a tarp. WS sleepers ( 97 and newer) have a plastic honeycomb between two panels. Creates quite a few air breaks, for insulation and sound. I think 1 layer of reflectix, with a 1/4” gap would be a good start. Then Solid panels of of high R value foam board. Maybe some spray foam from a can in a few areas. I’m still deciding. Condensation is a consideration. Lot of different ideas on insulation. Too many. Looking a basic ice chest cooler, prices spray foams hard to beat, for eliminating condensation. Boils down to having an air gap, or an envelope.

 

I’m thinking of spray foaming the underside of my cab/ sleeper as that’s where most of the heat and noise comes from when running down the road. I just gotta run some access tubes for wiring and such.

Sand it all down smooth after app and hit it with some undercoat to make it look clean .

That would get my feet wet applying it.

I’ll buy some of that foil back insulation and see what I think of it insulating the doors.

After that I’ll try to come to a conclusion of what to do with the interior of the bunk.

 

I saw a Canadian once that had the inside of fenders sprayed on a new WS.His Boss didn’t want rocks putting stars in his paint. He was always picking rocks out of the insulation. Lol. It worked. I used the cheap Artic duct insulation from Lowe’s, in my doors.Poormans dynamat. Sprayed it with sound deadening undercoating first, and glue near seams, edges. It’s holding up. Not much room in there. Everythings new now, on doors. Still need to make some new thick inside door panels. Plan on also doing the floor, maybe 2 layers. Mainly for noise. Thick closed cell foam used on new cars works good if you have the room. Like to get some, it comes in all densities and thicknesses. Peel and stick. Put it under the dash, on firewall. My Truck is so loud inside. Need some good hood insulation, it’s all long gone. Rather not put anything on the outside firewall. But that would be best. Still not sure on roof. Lighter silver or white paint would be good. Rather not have to paint. I’m thinking a thick exterior insulation board with foil on at least one side, facing up, leaving an air gap for starters.