So here’s the deal in my opinion, and I’ve bought 9 trucks over the last 13 years. Doesn’t make me right, just tells you I have made enough bad decisions to have an opinion. Every truck that is not under warranty can hurt you. I have overhauled 5 of those 9 trucks in less than 200,000 miles after having purchased them. 3 of them in less than 25,000 miles(1 because of a bad tuning decision, but one of them was a one owner, one driver 600,000 mile truck with all service records). I mention all of this to make the point: if you can afford to stomach $40000+ in repairs and 2-4 weeks downtime in your first year, feel free to buy an older truck. There are less components and computer systems to fail(although there are more wear failures like wiring and body issues) and the lower payments cost less when it’s parked. But an older truck only costs less when it’s parked. If you can’t afford that, and can’t get into a truck under warranty with a plan for a maintenance fund by the time it comes off warranty, save until you do. Best case, buy new and roll it every couple years. Also good, buy decent used with budget to keep it going. Worst case, buy expensive used with no warranty and have it blow up so you have big repair and big payment. FYI I have 4 2015 and newer trucks not deleted and don’t have many emissions issues.
Old vs new trucks
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Dokaman, Jul 2, 2021.
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Pre-emission you're looking at 17ish years old now. Those trucks are on their way out.
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Like mentioned already, if your gonna stay away from our great state COMMIEFORNIA, get a pre emissions engine. My preference E-Model CAT. Little expensive for parts if something goes wrong, but always go GENUINE. And finding a good tuner will keep a smile/grin ear to ear when driving it.
Bean Jr. and Caterpillar Cowboy Thank this. -
Glider. Newer truck chassis wiring, older cheaper to fix, easier find service spots s60 for the win. Lots of them available stateside.
Bean Jr. Thanks this. -
Was just looking through all my old records the other day,
I bought an older truck ,
Paid $15k for the truck, drove it about a year and then spent $18k rebuilding the engine , trans , and both diffs .
Just double these figures for today’s costs.
Still had all kinds of trouble with the AC
I’d forgotten how much I spent fixing the stupid AC all the time .Magoo1968 Thanks this. -
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I'd go older, but with electronic fuel injection. No mechanical engines. The 90's CAT, Cummins, and Detroits offered good fuel economy, simple designs easy to fix and diagnose, and fairly economical parts.
I ran my 92 Volvo 4600 miles last week averaging 6.5 MPG with a 60 SeriesBean Jr. and Caterpillar Cowboy Thank this. -
If your mechanically inclined by all means go older but don't buy something clapped out with 1 foot already in the grave. That will sink you. If going newer your better off going brand new and dumping it once it reaches 400-500k.
Any pre emission engine is good. Cat, mack, 60 series, N14 all bullet proof compared to what's out today but be prepared to dump 30-50k in it to bring it backBean Jr., Caterpillar Cowboy, Dino soar and 1 other person Thank this. -
If you know what a wrench is and you have wrenches, and you have a place to turn the wrenches and you don't mind turning the wrenches then go old.
Otherwise go new.spsauerland Thanks this.
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