Clutch brake? Clutch?

I've heard and seen this said repeatedly, but I disagree.

Linkage setups that have multiple linkages, such as some Kenworths and Pete's, you end up with 6-10 different wear points.

I've replaced no telling how many clutches, and adjusted 10x more I'm sure.

There's no way to account for any wear in the linkage, clutch arm ,cross shaft, cross shaft bushings, clutch fork, and contact surface of the t/o bearing to clutch fork, without adjusting the linkage.

That wear is significant, especially on older trucks, and when you get guys trying to adjust a clutch by free play, it just don't work.

On older trucks, I probably had to adjust the linkage 90% of the time.

 

Exactly, you end up with false freeplay. When fork is at 1/8” the slop in linkage gives too much freeplay, can’t engage clutch brake. Bushings and motor mounts just as important. My freeplay would change after hitting rough road. Culprit was Cab bushings and motor mounts. I actually snapped the clutch lever, had it welded and broke it again. Then later, the linkage adjustment jumped the threads. I finally figured it out, it was from everything bouncing around, on big bumps in the road. Each time it seemed my clutch was shot. Had to adjust it just right to work at all. I finally fixed everything.

 

The point is when you attempt to adjust a clutch by freeplay and feel- like most inexperienced do- your doing it wrong..........

Generally speaking if the linkage is kept in good order and lubed at correct intervals there should be minimum wear and regular linkage adjustment should not be needed. The time that you will need to do this is during clutch replacement. Maintenance clutch adjustment should only need to be internal and at the pressure plate. Otherwise you have something worn in need of replacement not adjustment. At this point you are adjusting the linkage to compensate for worn parts.

The process should always be-
1. Set your 1/2" gap bearing to brake. I like it tight, as we all should.......as the clutch wears the gap increases. Leave it alone and dont touch it until the clutch wears again.

2. Check your fork to bearing gap. Should be 1/8". If it is your done. More gap here is more freeplay. Adjust your linkage to spec and leave it alone. Measure your freeplay if you want. If it is excessive you have a linkage that needs attention anywhere between the pedal and the fork has something loose or moving where it shouldnt be.

Keep in mind if you have hydraulic linkage you will have no fork gap and the feel of no freeplay.

 

I think I may have done my clutch as well. Just had to drive 1000km using the start in gear method, luckily this is only about 10 starts in Oz and I did have a tiny bit of clutch left.

My clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor only engaging the last inch, it doesn't spring back when u take the foot off.

Would this be the spring? I thought i felt something snap. If so does this mean new clutch? I tried to adjust the spring loaded adjustment bolt with someone pushing on the pedal, but the nut wouldn't turn and I didn't want to force it.

Also I know the linkages have been played with before, when you put in a new clutch do you have to reset these back to factory? Or leave them as they currently are?

Thanks

 

Sorry, one other question, if you are getting your engine rebuild, does the tranny come out? I was thinking of rebuilding my engine, just wondering if you save anything by doing clutch at same time.

Or does the tranny not come out on a rebuild? Thanks

 

After replacing. They should adjust clutch first. Inspect Linkage for wear, and replace and/or adjust if for proper freeplay if needed.

 

Trans doesn’t need to come out for a rebuild. When doing clutch, should also replace rear main seal, while trans is out. Also want to inspect the rear structure ( or cover) of engine for oil leaks. If it’s leaking bad, nows the time to fix that too. While trans is out.

 

No telling. My trans has 2 speed sensors on it, to my surprise. Had no speedo or cruise for a while, till I found it. Speedo never did work again. Had to replace it. They got you fixed quick. Hopefully it’s a wire or something simple.

 

I am guessing when doing the clutch, you put in a new 2 piece clutch brake to make changing the clutch brake easier in the future?