Thats exactly what he's been describing to me. But now sitting, it cooled back down, again too. I'm thinking that its the valve, because we repalced the wire that goes down to it.
N14 still issues with heat in cab after $$$
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by bullhaulerswife, Jan 4, 2010.
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it may just need the cable adjusted they have an adjustment sleeve in the fuse box also you can work the valve by hand there is a little panel on the right side lower part of the fuse box 4 screws and it will give you accesses with out haveing to drive around with the big panel offbullhaulerswife Thanks this.
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Well, the jury is in on this, and........ drum roll..........................................
We put to big of a radiator in the truck, when we replace the old one. Yup. All that stress and $$$ to find out the radiator is working to darn good.![[IMG]](proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi242.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff286%2Fmomsallbsns%2FSmilies%2F3dmagicien.gif&hash=1258b54a41cb1e15b116ba61f7db47bf)
I'm headed for beer three. Thanks for all the advice, we tried it all.
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Did you put a 5 core in it?
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Yup, specifically because it would heat up bad on grades.
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Well BHW it's good you guy's got the problem solved. Well at least i gave a suggestion;
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Just have him cover it up as much as possible, and then cover even more up. ALso tell him to not turn the heater on no more than the 3, 2 if he can get by. The faster that fan turns the colder the air will be.
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I will tell him. Thank you. You ever feel like murphy's law is following you around???

MM, I know that you feel that way. No need to answer.
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Thats a quick way to frost up the all the windows.Recirculate is really only for when the AC is on.
150-160* water temp goin down the road is way to low.As stated in prev post,probably defective temp regulators.My truck has no problem maintaining 180-190* at -35*. -
I would be looking for a bypass hose some where between the block and the rad , if the t stats are closed it shouldn't matter if the rad is the size of a lake. but if the bypass hose is dumping into the rad it will still cool none of the hoses between the rad and block should be much more than warm or at least not as warm as the heater hoses when the t stats are closed . a quick test after running for a while (warmed up) is to run the engine a t hi idle and turn the heater fans on full one of the heater hoses should be noticably cooler than the other
bullhaulerswife Thanks this.
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