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Oil dripping from breather tube on fresh rebuild.

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Cascadia, Apr 17, 2022.

Page 5 of 7
  1. Apr 18, 2022 #41
    Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I’m wondering exactly how many miles it’s been ran. First start? Yard driven? Sure no oils going out the exhaust? The rings will let oil and compression by when they’re new. Till they cut into the cylinders some. Could take 500 or more miles. 2-3 gallons is crazy. Are you sure? Lots of metal left in the block after it’s been cut for counterbores. Maybe something’s blocking a return hole on the head. Filling the valve cover with oil. I’m just guessing. Not a Mechanic. The pressures probably just coming past the rings. Like they lined up all the gaps. Even if they did, the rings turn on the pistons when it’s running. It would go away. Until you know for sure that oils coming from the tube in huge amounts, it’s all guessing. Oil will blow out of the stacks, no smoking, it’s not burning, just blowing past the rings. Oil slobber, very common after an overhaul. Till the rings cut into the cylinders since they’re not perfectly round. Maybe yours is just blowing compression and oil past the rings into the crankcase. Takes about 70k for them to fully seal up. New Detroit’s used to do that like clockwork. Right at 70k, the fuel economy would jump up almost 1 mpg. Sometimes takes longer, it wasn’t too rare for one to take up to 100k. My Dad would get a new Truck every 100k or so. From 1990-1999. Every one of them took 70k to seal up. I met a Guy once who was very frustrated with his. Rings wouldn’t seal up on his new 12.7, Dealer had no answers. Not until after overheating in the desert, what he feared was a disaster, ended up sealing the pistons. After it overheated, mpg’s went up. Engine was better than ever. Yours could just be slobbering a lot. Might just need to run at normal temperature longer. If you’ve only ran it a little bit, mostly cold, no load, they won’t seal up as good as with a good load on. It needs a good strain put on it, to make the rings seat into the sides of the cylinders. Just idling doesn’t get it. Neither does running it at high RPMs on break in. Better for it to be working hard.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2022
    Rideandrepair, Apr 18, 2022
    Rideandrepair, Apr 18, 2022
    #41
    Cascadia Thanks this.
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  3. Apr 18, 2022 #42
    Magoo1968

    Magoo1968 Road Train Member

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    Sounds like boost is pressuring crankcase somehow.. if rings were that loose if would smoke steady .
     
    Magoo1968, Apr 18, 2022
    Magoo1968, Apr 18, 2022
    #42
    little cat 500, Rideandrepair and Cascadia Thank this.
  4. Apr 18, 2022 #43
    Cascadia

    Cascadia Light Load Member

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    Jan 18, 2014
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    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    #43
  5. Apr 18, 2022 #44
    Cascadia

    Cascadia Light Load Member

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    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    #44
  7. Apr 18, 2022 #45
    Cascadia

    Cascadia Light Load Member

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    OIl cooler is new...
    I will definetly re check oil rocker orientation, it was installed back the same way it was before, didnt know it could be installed upside down...Whats strange is this engine even after the inframe oil pressure did not improved by a lot at idle...Maybe that could be the problem
     
    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    #45
    Rideandrepair and wore out Thank this.
  8. Apr 18, 2022 #46
    wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    CHASIN THE DEVIL'S HERD
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    @Rideandrepair has a good point they can be flipped front to back on the DDEC IV and down. Those shafts are round end to end. The V had the flat spots that went to the top. If that was case you would have no oil pressure. Since you have good oil pressure flipped front to back would be only option if they are not right.

    try that air trick it works
     
    wore out, Apr 18, 2022
    wore out, Apr 18, 2022
    #46
    Rideandrepair and Cascadia Thank this.
  9. Apr 18, 2022 #47
    Cascadia

    Cascadia Light Load Member

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    Well, here's the whole story...

    The engine had over a million miles on it, was losing power, and had lots of blowby to the point you could smell a very very strong odor after stopping after a long drive.

    If you shut it off at night, a lot of smoke will come out of the stacks for a few minutes in the morning (valve seals).

    So I decided to go ahead and do the in-frame myself (20+ years auto mechanic and ASE engine repair) who did a full rebuild in 2006 with great results but I dont call myself a Diesel Tech by no means.

    So I ordered all the parts from Freightliner last year (took about 5 months to get them) and a rebuilt head from my local Detroit Diesel shop.
    All liners removed, counterbores measured, all within spec, all good, liners installed, new pistons, pin and ring orientation per manual (got both repair manuals), new crank, rod and cam bearings, (Old ones looked good) also new oil cooler, rebuilt 770 Jakes, removed front cover and replaced little O ring behind rear cover (Oil feed from block to geartrain) sealed everything with Anaerobic 518 and torqued every single bolt/nut to spec.

    Pre oiled turbo, oil pump and primed diesel pump, started it and runs beautiful, barely any smoke on first start, drove it and you could feel a difference in power and sound.

    So last month I booked a load to California from Florida and after driving a couple hundred miles I noticed I was losing a lot of oil coming from breather tube, I delivered my load and came back home EMPTY, lot of money spent on oil and 4 truck washes to remove all that oil from rears to avoid getting put OOS if pulled at a scale...Very frustruating.

    I know it takes some time for rings to seat and its ok to burn a little oil but this aint normal .

    So here I am scratching my head as what went wrong because the only thing left to replace is my air compressor, everything in this engine is new except crankshaft, and the camshaft (Which I also wanted to replace but it needs to be ordered and did not want to wait but still looks good.

    I will start tearing apart again to see where I screwd up but Im very frustruated at this point without a clue of what is causing this.

    Thank you all for your answers and to this great forum.
     
    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    #47
    Rideandrepair Thanks this.
  10. Apr 18, 2022 #48
    Cascadia

    Cascadia Light Load Member

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    Exactly what Im thinking, engine never had a good oil pressure since I got it about 5 years ago, according to manual minimum is 35 psi at 1800 rpms.
     
    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    #48
    Rideandrepair Thanks this.
  11. Apr 18, 2022 #49
    Cascadia

    Cascadia Light Load Member

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    Jan 18, 2014
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    20220418_080755.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    #49
    Rideandrepair and nikmirbre Thank this.
  12. Apr 18, 2022 #50
    Cascadia

    Cascadia Light Load Member

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    Jan 18, 2014
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    Only thing odd I noticed when I took everything apart was that at least 2 cylinders had piston rings gaps lined up, other than that all bearings and even liners were not even damaged by cavitation like the one I had previously had rebuilt years ago.
    You know what ...I'll see if I can ask a buddy to let me hook a loaded trailer and drive it around town,
    I already drove it at high rpms for about 400 miles and have not seen any improvement.
     
    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    Cascadia, Apr 18, 2022
    #50
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