2010 international maxxforce dt

I know this is an old thread, but one of my tractors is having an electrical fault and the transmission display shows what it looks like asterisks. I'm getting SPN 2003 SPN 9. The tractor will start up and be ok for about a minute and then the transmission mode button light turns on and the display goes black and then turns to asterisks.

What did you mean by they are sensitive to boosting and over charging, So make sure I don't need boost?

 

@Heavyd I have a 2012 4300 durastar with maxxforce DT and allison 2200 the other day I was driving and buzzer sounds and I look at the dash and it say electrical issue I continue driving a mile or so and notice my mph not reading correctly so I pull over and switch off and check a few things and didn't see anything so I went to start and it wouldn't say anything I noticed the PRND indicator not working so I do the cruise control thing to receive the codes and it has three active codes that read spn:639 fmi:14 sa:0, spn:2003 fmi:9 sa33,spn:2003 fmi:9 sa:23 so I disconnect the batteries and check fuses at the battery check fuses in the cab and everything looks good so I hook batteries back up and it started up and worked had no active codes so I continued home and get a couple miles down road and same thing buzzer saying electric issues and transmission indicator not showing and it is not shifting so I pull over switch off pull codes and same three codes I mentioned earlier I didn't do anything but set for maybe 10 minutes and it started back up and was working correctly for maybe 5 more miles and exactly same thing happened again so I pull over same three codes kept trying to start it every few minutes and it finally started back working and I make it a few more miles before it does it again. Same three codes a kept trying till it started working again and I made it home. After I get home I checked all connections unplug and put grease and plug back in I don't see any bad spots in the wires the connections look clean, I cleaned the grounds and the power wire on the fire wall which looked good, I also checked the power wire at the bcm it was tight and clean has over 12volts at every connection I check, I don't know what else to look for. I can start it right up and bump the idle up and it'll run may 10 minutes and the buzzer will sound and it'll say electrical issues and have the three codes, I switch it off wait about 5 -10 minutes and it's back working again for a few minutes then it'll do it all over again. Could you tell me what I'm missing that I can check.also if you need to ask something I missed please ask, I am pretty handy but this has me lost.Thanks again

 

You probably have a data link communication problem power supply problem to the
transmission control unit or a or a failing TCU and TCUs do fail.
When you say the the PRND indicator not working is not working is it dead no light in
the display or are there * where the gear indicators are? If the transmission control in the
cab the WTEC is alive you can get fault codes and info from it by simultaneously pushing
the up down arrows.
Navistar likes to run the harness over top of the transmission and zip tie it to the lifting eyes
on top of the transmission. I have seen wires rub through and break on the harness on top
of the transmission. Disconnect the connector at the rear of the transmission and the TCU
and the sensors on the transmission and you should be able to pull the harness out enough
to inspect it for damage.

 

My transmission has the t-handle shifter, it's not the digital display push button my auto has a shifter cable. The PRND that I'm referring to is on dash display. PRND it has a black or highlighted box around the gear indicator that disappears when the issue happens.

 

Engine, cluster and body controller all reporting loss of communication with the transmission. Your next step is to check the transmission for codes which may not show up in the cluster, so you need to find someone with Allison software for that. The Allison transmission controllers of that generation do have high failure rate. If it runs fine for about 10-20 minutes and then fails, I think the controller is bad. Once it warms up on the inside it fails. Let it cool down, and it's fine again. Usually if this is the case, they log power faults. You can check the wiring at the controller. Disconnect it. Pin 70 and 10 are battery power in. 69 and 9 are main grounds. 63 is key power. 8 and 28 are your data links. Check the pins for corrosion or spread terminals and load test the power/grounds and key power terminals with a headlight bulb to make sure your wiring is good. When the bulb is connected and shining bright, the wire is good. Dim or no light is a bad wire somewhere. Also when the light is on, wiggle the harness as much as you can reach to make sure the test light doesn't flicker which would indicate a bad spot in the harness.

 

So if there are no codes reported in the tcm and the light test is good I should replace the tcm? Can I get a used tcm or does it need programming?
Thanks, I'll report back soon as I get the tcm scanned and check the power wires with a headlight.

 

I scanned it with a prolink with allison and this is what it says

 

What reading should I get on the data link pins ? If I set my dmm on ohms I don't get a steady reading on pins 8&28 it ranges from 1.m -3.m with key on and disconnected from tcm. The power pins with a headlight hooked to them all have strong steady bright light.

 

On the power pins at the tcm 70&10 read 12.14 but 63 only reads 11.74 with key on same reading with pin 9&69 ground .those readings are with the headlight on burning , the light doesn't look any different or dimmer on 63 than 10 & 70. Those reading are with tcm disconnected

 

Today I noticed you can start it and it's fine within 10 minutes it'll buzz and say electrical issues, switch off and it takes maybe a couple minutes and it's back working again but each time it seems to do it quicker than the last, today when I load tests the tcm pins after I hooked it back up I switched the key on and didn't start the engine and let it set and within a few minutes it did as if it was running the buzzer sounded and the display said electrical issues , just like it's been doing but I didn't know it would do it just by turning the key on and not starting it.

 

Your powers, ground and ignition look good. The best way to test the datalink is with two tests, first key on. Check one datalink pin to ground and then the other on volts. You will get about 2.6 volts on one wire, and about 2.4 volts on the other. Second, with the key off and after all modules have entered sleep mode, (takes about 5 minutes) you check the datalink resistance between 28 and 8 on ohms and should have about 60 ohms, (+/- 5 ohms). Again, wiggle the harness around while watching your meter for any major fluctuations. If the numbers stay consistent, I think you have a bad TCU there. If you order new, they do need to be programmed by an Allison dealer. They will need the TCU Serial number and CIN number to properly install the right calibration file to the replacement tcu. I don't know about your scanner, but Allison software will retrieve it, there is also a sticker on the back of the TCU itself with this info, but sometimes it has worn away. After that you only need to plug in the new one.