Catmando clutch operating instructional manual.

A large part of why we switched was it's easier to get guys to pass with an auto. Fewer hold backs, fewer fails and you don't have to teach them to shift for good fuel economy.

Fuel economy is the biggest, no doubt, but training costs weren’t far behind. Not to mention fewer on the road accidents.

 

Yes and no. The computer holds the clutch at the "proper" point - not too shallow not too deep. Guys who single clutch and just hold the clutch in like on a syncromesh tend to end up in the clutch brake.

 

I’m asking cause I truly don’t know the answe to this. You may or may not.
With an RTLO 13 or 18 when you split direct to overdrive do you let off wait for the shift then back on the throttle or use the clutch?


Again this is not to continue to argue but if Eaton says no clutch then this is a prime example of them talking outta both sides of their face.

As far as minimum wear on a trans that’s been floated proper we can say I will go along with that. It’s minimal and in the big scheme of things matters no more than the minimum wear on a clutch from double clutching. What I’m saying is double clutching properly with the wear it causes still will not cause you to put a clutch in any sooner than me. Them dampener springs are gonna #### the bed either way close to the same mileage. Just like a double clutched trans will have problems comparable to one that’s floated around the same mileage.

My black 379 was a one owner with a 15 over. I had never driven a 15 and was sure I would hate it. I asked John the original owner how to shift it. His answer was start in the basement then come out of deep go to 4th then 5th split to high and run out the top. He made a couple miles with me to make sure I had it. I pulled that trans at 1.1 million. Went a couple different routes since. But I still miss that 15. 1.1 on a trans before slide collar wear in 1st is about as good as you’ll get. I had been around trucks my whole life. Had 2 of the best mentors I could have ever asked for. 1 of which is still considered the best CAT engine man of his time, after having been gone almost 20 years speaks volumes of him. Even at that a half a day spent with a chicken hauler from Muscle Shoals Alabama with an open mind taught me alot.

 

What kind of damage is done if you float gears in a synchronized transmission? I don't, I'm just curious.

 

If you actually float them, I wouldn't think much.

If you CRE float them, your mechanic will be able to put every kid in the neighborhood through college and still be able fund a Polynesian retirement.

 

I had an 01 Dodge 3500 1 Ton cab and chassis 5.9 HO and an NV5600 6 speed with 4.10 rear it was some sort of package to get the 6 speed it had be 4.10 and the high output motor as well as cab chassis. At any rate it had 425k on it when I sold it Had a service bed tools and a set of gin poles on it from day 1. Wasn’t crazy heavy at 17k and some change. I floated it every shift every day. At 300k miles I built my international 4900 and pulled the tool bed off the dodge and put a flat bed on it. At 425k miles a guy wanted worse than me so I sold it. I had done exactly 1 head gasket due to leaking externally, I fuel pump due to water in fuel, slave cylinder and master cylinder for clutch twice a beefed up set of rear springs pretty early I had about forgotten and a rear u joint.

Now brakes rotors etc go with out saying and the front end needed ball joints and tie rods stabilizer etc a couple times maybe 3. But it still had factory clutch trans rear end etc. that m’fer owed me nothing and I wish a million times I had bought 2 that day. I never done any power mods it had more than plenty in my opinion.