Big Loads - Post Photos Number 2

The frame doesn't necessarily have to be sitting on blocks, but the big deal is is that you have to somehow prevent the machine from articulating since it bends in the middle.

That's really the only hard requirement and you can do that in a number of ways. You can chain the two halves together

For a machine that light some states are satisfied with a travel lock some would still require you to independently secure both halves, kind of down to the dot officer on that.

I got a fully admit for a roller like that I'd probably hit the travel lock and at least get two pull them forward two put them backward.

But in the tigh space you're in, I can see there's a little less option, long as you can keep that thing from bending in the middle some way you'd be fun to do a v pull that way

What caxpt said up there with the V and A pull would definitely be a good way to do it if there's no way no sort of travel lock or no sort of way to defeat the articulation

 

It’s solidly against the back of the neck so it’s not going forward and pretty much blocked by the dozer to the rear and articulation lock is engaged on the other side…idk why there’s one on both sides. The owner is very particular about pulling down on the frame because he says it’s going to brake the rubber vibration dampers…he doesn’t even want me to tighten the chains. I don’t like the way it’s tied down mostly from a leagal standpoint but it’s what he wants. I have thought about trying to tie to the edges of the drum just haven’t put much effort into it because I don’t move it that much and it’s always with this small dozer so it’s effectively blocked in. to anyone who moves rollers do they all have this rubber vibration dampener and if so what do you do? Sorry I really don’t know anything about rollers.

 

Pretty much any vibratory roller will have a rubber component to them, but I have never worried about damaging them when tying them down. The hole where you have your chains is designed for that purpose.

 

Not much more you can do. Those are the factory tie down points. I definitely wouldn’t be hauling anything that heavy with loose chains.

 

They usually get tighten at the first stop sign or as soon as I am out of sight because I sure don’t need any trouble over it.

 

Always one to try and find the right answer, here you go.

I'm including an upload of the page in the manual that applies specifically to Loading/Towing, and I'll also include a link to the whole manual here:
Manual

Here's the page of consequence, and it appears your customer is right. Those vibration dampers need to be protected, but also this shows how to chock the vehicle so you can crank it down with the chains. You're not technically putting it on blocks, you're blocking the frame so that you can torque the chains down.
I'll put the page here in pic for all to see for future reference. The pain is that it is landscape, so you'll have to crank your head to read it....or do what I did and print it so you can read it right side up.

Unfortunately for you, now that you know how it's supposed to be properly loaded, you'll have to deal with your conscience if you don't do it right.

 

Almost forgot how to deal with this stuff yet several years ago this one would have seemed like a cake walk.

 

That’s an antique

 

Mid 70s…probably looks older than it is to.

 

760 A? I learned to run elevating scrapers on an 860 A.