Are we fixing to see a huge purge in trucking?

And right now MHC has new T680’s in the $180k range, basically back to the prices to what they were before. And if you stay away from commercial lending sources you’re not anywhere near the 9-10% interest that they’re charging. Now other people could also get lucky and get into a new truck if they wanted to.

 

@Siinman

I agree that its important to plan appropriately. My gray truck, i paid off (17500) in one year then the next month had to do an engine rebuild to the tune of 24k.

But even with that, over the time i ran it, its maint costs (including tires, a new transmission, a differential) were only 1k a month. By doing my own work, i easily chopped off 400$ a month, not to mention i built my toolbox from pitiful to.... only tool i dont really haave that i want is a 6000 lb lift to pull an engine.

This blue truck, pretty lucky run so far i guess, but ill take it.

Maybe ive just had real good luck, but i dont have to run tons of miles, i am home every weekend and while not independently wealthy, im doing ok.

Smart me says i should probably run hard and just destroy the trucks with minimal maintenance and just scrap them with a decent warchest for something better, but im okayish with the way im running.

 

I’ve been lucky. This Trucks never been on a hook. Bought it Jan 09 for 21k. Had a fresh inframe that went 1.3 mil miles. I’ve had the clutch replaced 1.2 mil miles ago. Trans 1.1 mil miles ago. Did clutch rear structure, rear main, new flywheel myself, 300k ago. ( took me 3 weeks liked to killed me) saved $5k Labor. Had it Inframed, new ATAC, (2nd time) turbo, radiator ( original was 19 yrs old and had approximately 2.3 mil. Replaced original starter 3 yrs ago. Steering box 2 yrs ago. Drag link this yr. Fuel mileage has never been great, till just recently. Now it blows a head gasket. W/ 210 k on inframe. It’s going to need another trans soon. Probably rears also. They’re original 2.5 mil. I had 2 wheel seals replaced over the years. Replaced all 4 along with bearings and races last spring. This was my dream Truck way back when. Couldn’t afford it new. Smooth ride is my main priority. It’s no Volvo but it a smooth ride. I’ve put half dozen or more front wheel seals, 3 sets of bearings and races. Rebuilt the driveline about 5 years ago. All new yokes etc. Otherwise just normal stuff. Normal after 700 k is different than pre 700 k. Suspension bushings, air bags, cab bushings , shift linkages, motor mounts. Been broke down quite a few times. Like an old Dodge Dart or Chevy Nova, always been able to limp it and fix relatively cheap. Almost everything costs less than a Columbia, Cascadia Or Coronado. The trade off is .75 less mpg. on average. And because it’s old, it always is in need of something. Even if everything was replaced new all at once, things need replacing. I need rear spring bushings again. Replaced them 5 yrs ago. It’s the same with any Truck. I like the Fld’s and Classic’s because they’re simple and easy to work on. And especially because parts are normally available. Nowadays everywhere but the Dealer. Everything’s on back order, and 50% more expensive. Lots of aftermarket parts available, because they were made for so long, and were so common. Brand new is best IMO. Trading every 3 yrs., 4 max. At 5 yrs. You’ve lost resale value and repairs increase. At 6-7 yrs. You’re line a dog chasing it’s tail.

 

An FLD series cab and a 12.7 is a bulletproof combo. I loved mine and honestly didn’t mind working on it because it was simple. The nicest part was all the electrical under the center of the dash. Used parts were plentiful at salvage yards. With the headache that my W900 turned out to be I wish I would’ve kept my FLD and repaired the cracks in the cab skins.

 

I’m sitting at a dead stop in construction 60 miles from home. I just unplugged the low temp sensor. My heats cutting out under 1000 rpm. That means the heater cores getting air pockets because my coolants getting very low. I’m afraid if it stalls it won’t start again. Probably got 1/2 gallon of coolant in the oil pan. Cutting it close. I guess if the pump picks up the coolant, it’ll spin a bearing. Going for broke.

 

Well, when i had my head gasket go and had the forbidden grey pudding puking out the blowby, i ended up doing a full rebuild, the cat shop that did it said i didnt need to and that nothing had spun, they recommended rolling in new bearings and just a headgasket, but at the time a warranty and a full rebuild sounded like the way to go.

I blew 5-10 gallons of coolant into the oil before parking it at the shop to be fixed.

 

Fingers crossed

 

He probably paid around 150K back then. Now it's at least 30K more.
With the current interest rates and so many truck loans going bad, to get a financing for almost 200K truck a lender probably will ask you to put 50K down and you won't get a better than 7-8% interest rate.

 

Doubtful. I paid $168k for mine and I ordered mine early April of 21 before the price increases. The only extra I had to pay was $1500 to keep my late ‘21 build spot instead of letting them push my order until early ‘22. And like I said, stay away from commercial lenders and your terms will be a lot better.

 

Not lucky at all. I had planned it in advance when I seen Biden was gonna most likely win.