Bad yoke and slip joint after alignment?

Dok2304 · Jan 10, 2024

rollin coal said: ↑

To be fair I had to learn this same **** that way too. Lesson I took there was learn how to DIY everything possible. Obviously some things are not DIY. Gonna have to pay somebody to get new yokes welded on or maybe just buy a new shaft but there's a LOT $$$ to be saved in all the labor dropping the shafts out and reinstalling with new u-joints and it can be done in the driveway with basic hand tools by a layman.
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Dok2304 · Jan 10, 2024

abyliks said: ↑

Probably the markup on parts because labor is still only $125 an hour…

8 hour job turned into a week over ~$500……
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These people came up with a “genius” idea to bump up the price on parts, so they can justify $120/hour and compete with other local businesses. My mechanic warned me about them. I’m sure not everyone receive same estimates, and I’ll leave it to that.

Dok2304 · Jan 10, 2024

W923 said: ↑

When you heat metal it expands. If you can restrain the expansion it will yield and then when it cools it will be smaller. This is how most if not all wide flange highway bridge beams are cambered and also works for arching trailers and straightening drive shafts. It’s not necessary to heat the part much over 500f to get it to change so you aren’t affecting any heat treatment or softening the steel. When I do this to the yoke I either use a vice or a massive c clamp to restrain the expansion. The end result is typically an out of round hole in the yoke that can then be bored or honed to the proper size and roundness. It’s not going to be feasible for a yoke with the holes wallowed out but one that is just getting loose is fixable.
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No shop will fix that for me unless it is replaced. Only you can do it for yourself, or friends and family … I knew it was some sort of way to fix it, but if you go this route, you still have to keep an eye on it, to see if it’s holding, you know.
It can be a hit or miss…

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