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So for a while now. I been having coolant hoses slowly leak because of faulty clamps. I had those “constant torque” ones that CAT offers and I bought some T-clamps in Amazon like in the picture. I even bought some 3” hose clamps from a parts store. They all seem to leak no matter what. The best results I gotten so far at the T-clamps. I just have to go back and retighten them after a few weeks and then they stop leaking(as of now). I figure Im going to double clamp all of them. Just asking if anyone has anything like this were they tried the oem ones. Started leaking and tighten until the leak stop and then it would “cross thread” but it’s just the screw stripping the clamp slots itself.
I don’t even let my engine go much pass 200 degrees because I can smell the coolant and it makes me nervous to think the extra heat is causing more pressure making the issue worse.
Coolant hose clamps
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Sandsailor, Jan 24, 2024.
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Jordonh and Sandsailor Thank this.
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Using emery cloth on your fittings when you have a hose off to clean deposits including micro bits of rubber also helps to reduce weeping leaks.krupa530, 86scotty, Sandsailor and 1 other person Thank this. -
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I’ll look into that. I just keep fighting them every time they had moisture on the end of the hose and eventually they’ll just strip. So it’s kind of frustrating.
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I can't tell if your clamps have the springs to keep constant tension. Almost everytime I change hoses/clamps I have to retighten after a few days and usually again when the cold weather comes. Try a different type of hose. Good luck
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I’ve found retightening them when hot, works best. If they’re silicone hoses, they’ll seep for a while, especially when cold, till the hose gets “glued” to the metal. I’ve never tried it, but often thought about a thin layer of permatex #2 on the metal before putting the hose on. Might help initial seal. I wouldn’t use the clamps pictured. Those are missing the spring needed to be considered constant torque clamps. Use the good constant clamps made for silicone hoses. Must be large enough for the inner ring to completely wrap the hose, then be tightened and re tightened as needed while good and hot. Eventually the leak should seal up. The smaller the clamp, the harder to get tight enough, because of the full wrap design. Go easy little at a time, to avoid stripping the threads.
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Have any pics of the clamp placement?
That can have a effect on the sealing of the hose. -
Might be worth looking into clamp tite tools.
Some places you just can’t get them on. -
We’ve always used this to help tack coolant hoses on nipples and on bolt threads that their threaded holes are tapped and open to a water jacket/passage.
Sandsailor Thanks this.
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