I hope this question breaks no rule. I apologize if it does.
Were I to buy one of these trucks, it possibly would be used for a flatbed hauler. I would have several months to get it fixed up. Up to an inframe overhaul (ONLY IF NEEDED). I would try to install an inexpensive APU. As I haven't bought a truck before, I wonder if anyone thinks this might be a good or bad deal.
SPECIFICATIONS
Quantity 9
Year 2000
Manufacturer VOLVO
Model VNL64T660
Price $18,500
Location xxxx
Condition USED
Number of Rear Axles Tandem
Mileage 678K Avg
Engine Volvo
Engine Brake Yes
Engine Type VED12
Horsepower 475
Overdrive No
Ratio 3.70
Sleeper Double Bunk
Sleeper Size 70"
Stock Number xxxx
Suspension Air Ride
Tires 22.5
Transmission 10 Spd
Wheelbase 234"
Wheels All Aluminum
Front Axle Lbs 12,000
Rear Axle Lbs 40,000
Used Truck Question
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by linden, Jan 30, 2007.
Page 1 of 2
-
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
I'd say the rear end ratio is a bit high (numerically) for those rigs. I say this because they don't have OD. Can you get rigs with maybe 3.55 or even 3.31 rears? Naybe you could go as low as 3.11. I'm just thinking out loud, considering diesel is so outrageous in price these days.
How much does each rig weigh?
Be sure to get ECM(?) readings on each truck. Make sure that 600K-miler is not really a 900k-miler. This scam is common. -
I'd want to know what the numbers of the transmission are, I also question if you'd want a tall sleeper with a double bunk to pull a flatbed, I'm only guessing about the transmission.
I read spec sheets and Schneider tractors were spec'd with a 10 speed direct (no overdrive), with a final drive of 2.93, they use 22.5 LP rubber. They also get good mileage.
The truck I drive now is a steep overdrive in the final gear, and it severely lacks power in adverse conditions, wind and grade. I can start out almost anywhere in third gear but ninth gear is done at 59 to 60 and there are times it won't hack tenth. Mileage suffers from both over revving and lugging.
It may be that the Volvo engine runs the best with that set-up, I have seen many with that same final and a ten speed in the truck papers, the ECM may have MPG for the entire running history of the truck, I know Detriot and Cummins would.
I would want nothing taller than a mid-roof to pull a flatbed, if you were thinking of a tall curtain-side, then you would want a condo.
AJ -
Volvo's are heavy. something lkr 21K for the BIG sleeper. We has a mid sized sleeper unit with single bed and it was 19K lbs. ALso we had high maintenance costs with that truck. I wouldn't do a volvo personally. If I were looking for a decent used for a good price I'd look at freightliners and KW t600's both with skirting. the freightliners can be had cheap. Werner sells alot of decent used units
-
There are two issues that I'll cover briefly before I leave for work, and will try to get back to possibly this evening.
One, the Volvo engine has 2 strikes against it. One is that if you are pulling at 80k weights, owners of the Volvo's say that the engines feel weak at higher gross weights. people pulling 65,000 or so have no complaints, but if you do a search through various sites for the Volvo engine, that is a constant complaint. One of our members here, Maestro, has a Volvo engine and you might consider pm'ing him and getting first hand info. he's a good guy and will tell you the truth.
The second issus of the Volvo engine is that there is a very limited supoport and service network for it. You are pretty much limited to going to the Volvo dealer and buying parts and paying for their labor rates, because the parts network is not as developed as it is for the more common brands. You can buy Cummins and Detroit parts at the local 7-11, but not Volvo parts. Tht increases your running costs, and is a reason why I would recommend that you stick to the more traditional brands. Even Cat, who also limits their parts somewhat, has more access than Volvo does.
As for Gearing, here is the method to use to select your drivetrain. Once you choose an engine, contact a dealer and find out what the "Sweet spot" for that engine is. Every engine will have an rpm range that provides the best performance and fuel economy. Usually, it matches up with the engines torque peak, and on most modern engines it will be in the 1400-1500 rpm range. Using that rpm, figure the road speed you commonly plan to run, for example 62, and figure using those numbers. Set your tire size, final drive ratio, transmission ratio, and numbers so that when all is said and done, you are turning at the bottom of the sweet spot rpm while turing the road speed you plan to run. You have to behonest about how fast you plan to drive, but if you do that, you will get the best fuel mileage and power available from your truck. -
First, Im an 80 year old retired guy who will not be driving the truck I want to buy.
I want to buy a truck for my niece who will complete her second tour in Iraq in April. She has been in charge of and driving in conveys. She has a Purple Heart and a Bronze Star.
She has been planning for a long time to become a Trucker. She speaks of nothing else.
My plan was to buy her a starter truck, but now she has joined forces with a Lieutenant who has nine years OTR experience driving flatbeds. A company she used to drive for has agreed to take them on as a team and they have agreed to team up for six months while my niece gains OTR experience.
My niece does not have her CDL yet but has arranged with SAGE at a nearby community college to get it. I think she will have no problem getting her license as she has a lot of time teaching other soldiers how to drive. She has also spent some time (3 months) training civilian contractors.
After her six months are up, I will still buy her a starter truck. I hope it will give her a year or so service. Then she will be on her own.
The truck my original question was about would be one of nine to choose from. I had a person check them out and he says they look good and are apparently road ready with complete maintenance records. If I went with a KW, Pete, Mack, whatever, I would probably have to go to an older model. For no good reason I have developed a prejudice against Freightliners.
I still intend to buy my niece a starter truck and hope to have two or three months to fix it up. I thought that a 2000 model for $18.5 wasnt a bad deal. Of course I would attempt to do a little haggling. I dont think most newbie Owner Operators would be too critical of such a gift.
Opinions of my plan are appreciated. Most technical jargon goes right over my head. Thanks to all. -
In my opinion, the Volvo is a good truck to start with, but like said earlier, I would steer clear of the Volvo engine. I have known of many problems with the Volvo engine, and like said, you have to take it to a Volvo dearler for repairs or parts. Also, it will cost quite a bit more to rebuild a Volvo engine (if needed) simply because you have to get the parts from the dealer, no aftermarket parts available. Just something to think about. And by the way, God bless your neice!
-
Here's a formula from my old high school physics class. It may help you determine if these trucks are right for you:
MPH = ( Engine RPM * Tire Radius ) / ( Final Gear Ratio * 168 )
Or
Desired Engine RPM = ( Desired MPH * Final Gear Ratio * 168 ) / Tire Radius
If your high gear ratio is 1:1 (no overdrive), then your final gear ratio will be 3.70 with these rigs.
Here's another formula you may be able to use:
(mph)(gear ratio)(336) = (tire diameter in inches)(rpm)
Like others have said in this thread, the heaviness of the Volvo, the Volvo engine, and the fact these rigs have high-roof sleepers make me believe you should pass on them if you (or someone else) is going to run them on the road running flatbed loads. -
If they want to run team hauling heavy freight like produce or flatbed then weight will be a big issue and like I stated the volvo is heavy. it's also not cheap so don't thing a kw or something else will be more.
Freightliners can be very good deals but they don't bring much on trade in. this is less of a concern for you considering a used truck since by the time they turn it in it will be worn out anyways and won't bring much. I'd consider a freightliner in your options personally but we all have our preferences. I REALLY like the kw T2000 very fuel efficient which puts more bucks in your pocket. I'd also look at the kw T600 but really for a team the more room you have the better whch means a wide body truck like the t2000, freightliner, international, volvo is better. International can be nice too with the right spec and they can be had for a very resonable price.
Remember if they want to haul flatbed then a mid roof may be better for them than a standup.
Oh I ALMOST forgot....... Do you want to be my uncle too????? I'v had my eye on a t2000 KW :smt106
You are a good man, good luck -
Burky or Anyone else;
What is your recommendation for a starter truck? I have my own feelings about this, however my thoughts may differ from yours. I hope you can point out where my thinking is wrong. The truck will be a gift. I dont want to have to see it sold at a tremendous loss, but if it has to be sold at a loss, the loss won't be to me, but to the person Im giving it to.
First, I want to pay cash and incur no debt. That means I am comfortable paying up to $20k or so. Less would be better. That will leave me enough cash to get whatever I buy into relatively good shape. I want the truck I buy to run for a couple of years with no more than routine expenses. Of course I can only hope this will happen. Id like to get as late of model year as is possible.
I very recently found out that 450 or more HP is desired with a 13-speed transmission. Maybe a 10-speed with overdrive . The rig should have cruise control. That takes care of the wants I have heard from the potential owner of the truck. Were I to go into more detail, it would ruin the surprise. She does not routinely communicate with me.
Now, I think that I should think of a rig that has at least a 60 inch sleeper and will be relatively clean.
Tires should be new or near new on the stears. Drive tires should be in relatively good condition.
Maybe good recaps would be OK. Have to think more about this.
It will hopefully have a good outside appearance requiring no more than minor touch up. Id like to have it detailed. No more than a couple of hundred bucks or so.
I want it to be gone over mechanically. If it needs major repairs I would expect to pay less of an initial cost. I can afford up to an inframe overhaul.
Engine make I have no real preference. I think:
Cat repairs seem too expensive.
Cummins & Detroit seem to be OK.
Volvo VED appears OK. Called a couple of service places. They seemed to have no problems when ask about getting parts or making repairs. They were not Volvo dealers. Would be glad to work on a truck with no time pressure. One said Volvos were being bad mouthed as were Honda and Toyota autos a few years back.
Ask about an inexpensive APU. Both said they would look to see what is available. Maybe as low as 3 or 4K. Im still thinking about this. Dont want to put too expensive a unit on a cheap truck.
What else havent I thought of? Remember I want this to be a starter truck that is as new as practical. I dont want to get into anything too complicated.
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 1 of 2