Volvo CB Antenna

The power ( it is not power that hurts you it is the amount of excessive harmonics produced by a poorly tuned over modulated radio that does it) of the 94 wont hurt the electronics as long as its tuned to be clean but if it has been clipped (modulation limiter) or swing kit or just poorly tuned then it wont matter what kind of antenna you use your still going to have problems.

That being said....you would be better off with the bird perch. One 18 ft coax and that's all you need,the mount is even better grounded than the factory locations so you wont have to do anything else. If you want to run new coax to replace the factory then your going to have to get a soldering iron and learn how to solder the new ends on the coax once you run it through the door and dash because there is not enough room to do it with the ends on and either way.... that is a pain in the butt to do!

If your truck is not very old then you can use the factory coax as long as you use good antennas with new studs and the mounting locations must be cleaned and free of rust so you will have a good ground. You would still see better performance from the bird mount than you would from the factory mount just because the factory coax has more line loss and the ground is not as good. In the end it just depends on how far your willing to go to get what you want.

......me, i would got with the bird perch.

OH and one more thing. Don't ever coil your coax up. You want to lay it out at about a foot long and then fold it back on its self,just keep the bends about a foot apart. If you coil the coax up it creates an RF choke and that causes strange things to happen with your SWR.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but what is a bird perch, other than a tree limb or wire?

 

It's a steel rod with a threaded end that screws into and replaces one of the screws just above the windshield visor on the side of the cab.

 

The concept of using 18 feet of coax is a myth. I could go through the whole theory but rather do it I would suggest you read an article at: http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/myth-1.htm

I totally agree with this article. I have been in 2 way radio (CB, Ham, and General Radiotelephone Operator License) for over 50 years and was an electrical engineer for over 15 years.

Leon
(kc0iv)

 

If you don't have the inclination to learn how to solder you can do what I did. Use a bird perch then run the RG-8X coax down against the inside jab of the drivers door. Secure it with good clear packing tape, then run it back up the a-pillar securing it with adhesive cable keepers. Then fish it through the overhead to the center bin. Make a plywood base that fits the footprint of the center bin to mount your bracket. This will get the radio away from the engine cpu and help with the RF. Also run a flat braid wire from the antenna down the door jab, behind the hinges, down to the battery box. Secure it to one of the battery box mounting bolts. Use a piece of twine to measure you mounting path so you can keep the excess coax and braid to a minimum. I believe I used right at 12.5' of coax and 8' of braid. Remember yo do want a little slack so add 6'' to your measurements. And as always check the SWR, I do mine once a month just to verify that something has not come loose and gotten out of whack. Be sure and write down you final measurements and save them for when you need to replace your wiring. you will be surprized at the corosion that can build up in 12 months in a piece of coax.