Reefer: Recommend fixed spread or sliding closed tandems?

... let me guess... the guy just kept on going and high-tailed it outta there?

Seriously, that's no laughing matter and something newbies need to be aware of. There is a dump valve on my trailer, buy it's not brought forward to the cab. Never used it. Someday when it's warm outside and I've got little to do (yeah right) I'll finish the job.

 

he probably tried but was hung up pretty good... the wrecker that came to get the volvo had to winch his trailer off the frame of the volvo.. it was a big mess.. fiber glass, plastic, coolant, and not to mention the poor drivers that wanted to get out of their parking spot but couldn't.

i remember when i got my trailer i asked if there was a dump valve and the sales me said he didn't know because the owners tend to hide them pretty good. my first load was a load of post tension cable and i ended up driving for about 20mi on the front axle cause the rear wouldn't inflate.. i spent three hours at a Loves off of CR290 (i think) tracing wires and what not.. found out the last owner put a second pig tail receptacle on the trailer just for the dump valve. I ended up rewiring the two pig tails. so now when ever i turn on my parking lights, all of my running lights come on (markers and tail) and when i flip the switch for the clearance lights, my dump valve activates.. now i just have to rewire the button on my turn signal that flashes my clearance lights so when i press it, instead of it deactivating the dump valve momentarily it actually flashes my marker/parking lights and tail lights.. i dont know how'd that work on a box seeing as how ya'll actually have lights at the top of the trailer.

i'm trying to work out a plan to somehow get multiple switchs to work off of one wire, that way i can put backup lights, strobes, dump valve and what ever else i'd want to add to a trailer on one wire and not need to add a second pig tail.

 

I always liked a spread on my flatbeds but they weight penalty on a reefer or van is just more than I can handle so I prefer a slider now.

Most of our shippers will load me as heavy as I want but the outfits who won't let you out the door with one extra pound cost me too much $$$ so I need to be as light as possible when I weigh-in.

 

Ok going back to the original post for a minute--IMHO--I have more option w/spread reefer-in terms of loading--especially doing LTL--the added allowance of 2--20K axles makes loading(full loads) much easier--I usually leave with between 55-60 pallets--depending on drops etc. Assuming IM under 80K--I have lots of options on freight placement--this goes double loading my produce(multi pick)out west--can always just start loading and then start turning pallets--etc as I go since I can load heavier on tail--since no load finishes as it was set up(product availability-order changes etc.)
yes IMHO--they do ride much better(ok they look cool too LOL)
As for getting around and tire wear--once you are used to it and KNOW how to do it--they ARE easier to get around and tire wear(depending on specific application) is about the same--but you have to learn how to do it and know YOUR wagon--I have seen many go out and get a spread cause it looks cool and tear it up in a short amount of time--so it may pay to spend some time with someone who has pulled one a lot.
As for dump valves and how to? I could tell you--let's just say there are many ways to do this.
as for me the ultimate trailer would be a spread w/ sliding rear axle--where you could dump and/or lift both axles--Actually saw an O/O few years back with one--course it weighed about 90K mt LMAO! But think about running all the wt/toll pikes as a bobtail!
HMMM
Just my $.02

 

Lighter tractor. Talked to too many trailer salesman who constantly get beat up to lighten their trailers up as much as possible (without sacrificing strength) then when the buyer shows up to pick up the new wagon they always show up driving a lead sled.

Funny how some trailer dealers/mfg's make a huge deal about dump valves while others install them as a factory option. Along with triple bagged axles, surge valves ect. When people make a huge deal about how dumping one axle will kill a trailer I just laugh. The suspension will only lift X amount of weight, if your loaded heavy and you dump one of the axles and the bags don't have the capacity to handle the added weight they just bottom out and the weight is again put on both axles.

Just add the 2nd pigtail, you'll save yourself a lot of headaches. They make boxes that allow you to operate multiple things off one wire (like how a phone line can carry multiple calls at the same time I believe it's called multiplexing) but they're expensive and most likely a future maintenance issue.

I see some with sliding axles, I just don't see the time it would ever be an advantage to slide the axles closed. If the suspension is Hendrickson you can lift just about any trailer axle for about $600, Neway is more. It's a PITA to lift both axles because you need a leveling valve on each.

 

I see some with sliding axles, I just don't see the time it would ever be an advantage to slide the axles closed. If the suspension is Hendrickson you can lift just about any trailer axle for about $600, Neway is more. It's a PITA to lift both axles because you need a leveling valve on each.[/QUOTE]

I agree i see some too--I was just saying--this covered every possibility--actually (as I said) the only dis I see was WEIGHT LOL--although the slider would come in handy in Cali-(although I probably wouldn't take time to do it)-once 1st few drops would come off--I just suck em together--so nosy CHP(etc) could quite riding alongside slowly when they are bored--trying to figure out if I'm legal w/my spread--besides--there is no length marking on side.
Just my $.02

 

I wouldn't run Cali but if you have to "fake" length markings would come in pretty handy. There was a few highway patrol officers around here that figured out they could look for the suspension gauges that were mounted on a lot of the local grain hoppers in plain view. So instead of hiding the gauge on one trailer we had we just put a regulator on it. Load however heavy you wish, then turn the regulator on the gauge back to "legal". They would drive beside you and look then keep right on moving.

 

I might have to look into getting an axle to raise. I've got Hendrikson under my Great Dane.

 

Why not put a slider on the rear axle and have the best of both worlds. Even go so far as to put a dump valve on the rear axle. I totally disagree with most everybody. The closed tandem pulls easier,turns easier and backs up easier. If you are loaded and you dump your rear axle it still carries some weight and extends your turning and or backing radius. Plus it is hard on your suspension bushings. The only advantage of the Spread is it is easier to load.

 

it only extends your turning radius and backing radius if you want to be easy on your suspension.. if you get in a bind and have to pull a U in a tight space it can be done. your tires wont like it, your transmission cross member surely wont like it, but it can be done. it shakes EVERYTHING if you dont do it under power.