Dang head has to come off, need to know?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by red211, Mar 7, 2011.

  1. red211

    red211 Bobtail Member

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    Mar 5, 2011
    tn
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    My 12.7 DDEC II has to come apart. Coolant blowing out of tank, bypassed air compressor today and with in 2 minutes coolant starts overflowing and pressure gauge would get up past 15 psi. The question is, anything I need to know before I jerk it off tomorrow? I know about the new bolts and the torque is x plus angle, not sure of ft pds and angle though. Looks like the front cover will come off first I guess. I am pretty sure I have some buttons out also so will get them also. I don't have much in this thing and it isn't worth much either. Need to try to get out as cheap as possible for the time being, but time will tell. I am hoping cyl will be ok for now, sure don't need to have to do an in frame with a block cut! Any tricks I need to know before I start? It's in an LTL 9000 so that makes it fun right off the bat! Nothing like a two piece valve cover just so you can get it apart under the cowl! Yee Haw!!! TIA
     
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  3. Les2

    Les2 Road Train Member

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    Before you pull anything apart.... Do you have a valve in the truck that is for your water/heat but has air run to it? Best thing to do is close all your water lines off then run the truck. If that valve is bad it will push air into the water system and make it look like a head gasket.
     
  4. red211

    red211 Bobtail Member

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    Mar 5, 2011
    tn
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    This used to be a sleeper but the bunk has been pulled off and the rear heater hoses blocked off at the split. Is there a air valve in the dash for the cab heat or is it a cable. I thought by the feel that it is a cable. I thought about that but with the rear lines blocked I quit looking, I should have looked under the dash I guess. Before I start stripping I will air up the tanks and turn the key on, if it is an air valve that should show up. Really didn't need this, but none of us need them to break and it is always a bad time. Could have been worse, I had just finished a job that they were holding up my money on till I raised an area that I didn't even bid to do. Had to haul seven loads of fill to finish and it gave up on the way home. Got my money today, at least I have a little cash to buy parts with.
     
  5. Les2

    Les2 Road Train Member

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    My freightliner has that valve in the bunk but I think pete and KW have them in the cab. Don't know about Sterling? Just something I think you should check before going to far.
     
  6. red211

    red211 Bobtail Member

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    Mar 5, 2011
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    Thanks for the tip, not sure I would have rechecked it. This is an old 93 Ford so if it has a valve it very well could be leaking.
     
  7. Les2

    Les2 Road Train Member

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    Mine is a 93 Freightliner and it cost me a rebuild back in the 90's.
     
  8. SL3406

    SL3406 Medium Load Member

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    Jan 10, 2011
    Oklahoma
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    Easiest way to eliminate any valves is to disconnect the air compressor discharge line and drain the air tanks and see if the problem still exist.
     
    Les2 Thanks this.
  9. red211

    red211 Bobtail Member

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    Mar 5, 2011
    tn
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    Ouch, I unhooked the coolant to the compressor--- and put the air line back on, didn't think about that one. It starts pushing coolant out with the air pressure around 30 psi.
     
  10. SL3406

    SL3406 Medium Load Member

    550
    1,492
    Jan 10, 2011
    Oklahoma
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    I think it would be worth your time to check it with the air system drained just to be sure.
     
    red211 and Les2 Thank this.
  11. red211

    red211 Bobtail Member

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    Mar 5, 2011
    tn
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    Just found that thanks thingy, now have to figure out how to use it right. I will check without air to make sure. The last thing I want to do is pull a head and find out it is a $50 valve in the dash!
     
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