I am considering buying a 90 pete 377. After inspecting it I have a few concerns. First, and most important., the clutch pedal sticks where ever I stop pushing it down, be it 1/4,1/2 or all the way down. The only way the pedal will return is to pull it up by hand. Also I can hear a noise coming from the clutch area when depressing the pedal which kinda sounds like a dry or bad bearing. Also noticed a slight decrease in engine rpm when depressing clutch pedal. Am I looking at a clutch replacement?
Second, I noticed when engine was started the radiator fan was very slow to pick up speed. Worn fan clutch?
Third is just info: does this truck have self adjusters or manual brakes?
90 pete clutch problem
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by seapup, Sep 8, 2011.
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You should plan on replacing the clutch as well as the input shaft in the trans, the cross shafts, cross shaft bushings and release yoke.
The slack adjusters could be either or. -
Good advice if the clutch is really bad, but if you notice Seapup is still sort of a newbie (no offence,we have all been there) and this could be just the clutch pedal return spring not returning the pedal when you let off of it. The noise I would bet is the standard noise that all roadrangers make, just mash the clutch and it will stop momentarly, doesn't hurt anything. Talking about the fan are you sure the air was fully up, if it's been sitting awhile then this to is normal. Bender your right on with what you've said, just some simple, cheap things to consider first, since niether of us are there to see or hear for ourselves.
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I was vague in my explanation and my way of thinking on this inquiry.
When someone is selling a truck, they may downplay it's deficiencies to the seller as easy fixes, when in reality, after the sale and after the repairs are made, the buyer is astounded with the costs involved.
Buyers should use deficiencies as leverage to drive the price down on a vehicle for sale "as is".
The deficiencies should be seen as the worst case scenario on the buyers part in preparation of ownership.
If the repairs necessary end up to be minimal, then you just made a good buy.
My view on the clutch is that the release bearing is seizing up on the input shaft (worse case scenario).
If the necessary repair becomes less than that, then you're well covered in that area.
I totally missed the fan. The fan should be turning full force with no air in system as spring pressure engages it and air releases it. If the fan is lolly gagging on cold startup with no air, that means the lining is worn out on the fan clutch hub. -
good info. I am not buying it till the owner fixes the clutch issue. on the fan, can the clutch be rebuilt on it or is a new one in order? any ballpark on price?
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NEVER install a rebuilt clutch, always a new unit.
$1800 for new, parts and labor
Input shaft etc additional -
I meant the fan clutch
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Sorry, yes they can be rebuilt with a kit, but, labor involved drives the price up.
You're looking at a thousand bucks, give or take $200.
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