Daytons

You know 'em....... look like wagon wheels

Not used much anymore, but still an excellent system. Only ones that gripe about these are the ones who don't know how, or are too lazy, to true the wheels when mounting.

Then there's the tire dooooood/dooooodette who can't change a tire without using his/her 475,000ft/lb impact wrench

One of the perks for the proud owner of a rig with Daytons is the ability to change the wheels without air tools if necessary. This particularly appeals to my thrifty nature. I don't need no steeenkin' service truck

YOU DON'T NEED TO TORQUE DAYTONS TILL THE COWS COME HOME. 200 POUNDS OF TORQUE IS ADEQUATE. Mmmmmph

What you see here is the result of many years of idjits doing the wrong thing. The lug nuts are damaged to the point of the metal becoming "plastic". (see the razor sharp fringe on the wheel side of the nut). This is a result of banging away with an impact wrench.

Another common error is not replacing the studs when the nut cold welds to the stud, and the stud backs out of the wheel. The tire doods and "mechanics?" just run the stud back into the wheel again. The wheel is, as far as I know, ductile iron. You can't run steel fasteners into ductile iron, using high torque values, repeatedly without distorting or ruining the thread in the casting.

Anyhoo..........To replace the stud:

Double nut it.

Coat it with red bolt locker

And run it back into the casting after the threads have been cleaned with brake parts cleaner and a wire brush. I settled at 200ft/lbs torque lacking any manufacturer specs. 200ft/lbs with the bolt locker as a lubricant (increasing actual torque due to the lubrication) puts you somewhere in the middle of high/low values for iron castings when using a 3/4" gr8 fastener.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/SAE_bolts.html

http://www.wanderingtrail.com/Mechanical/Bolt_Marking_Torque_Standard.htm

Remove the double nut

Happy motoring