Allrite, I'll bite on this, if I'm not mistaken all but 1 brand of autoslacks requires a 7/16 wrench or 6 point socket. Personally,I like a Snap on 3/8 drive long handle ratchet with said socket,more leverage cause if it's a new slack it will be a SOB to back off.
Generally what I do is turn the ratchet clockwise till it gets tight, than backoff [CCW]1/2 to 3/4 turn.That is where the slack should be if it's working correctly. However note that you just adjusted the brake to be within DOT spec but if it was out of spec in the first place than you haven't really FIXED the problem.If an autoslack is not staying tight like it should something is wrong with either the system or most cases the slack itself. DON'T think that the problem is now fixed for good,cause most likely it will return to being out of adjustment. I have seen some slacks where the internal mechanism is ruined and when you hit the brakes 2-3 times the slack will be back where it was when you started. Note that when you go counterclockwise the head on the slack adjuster will[should] turn a lot harder. If it don't it likely will soon be out of adjustment again. Also note there is a particular brand of autoslack that requires a 5/16 wrench or socket for adjustment. That autoslack requires the removal of a pawl before it can be adjusted. If the pawl is not removed you will simply ruin the head of the adjuster and not get much else done. I'm sure this by no means is complete but it will be a start. If you go Gunite website or Haldex they might have more technical info and pics for you.
2 of 4 Trailer breaks out of adjustment - Take Load ?
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by R-Team, Oct 17, 2011.
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Here is a good story I found....
"once got a ticket in Orlando for automatic slack adjusters being out of adjustment! Not only that, I had to pay a local to have them adjusted. A month later I got another ticket for the same thing at the same Weight Station! These blemishes stayed on my DAC for a few years and I was refused a good job, because of this! The catch is it is illigal in most states to adjust automatic slack adjusters, but on the other hand everybody - the enforcement and employer wants the driver to do it. ### this job!"
This from the Washington State CDL manual....
Automatic adjusters should not have to be manually adjusted
except when performing maintenance on the brakes and during
installation of the slack adjusters. In a vehicle equipped with
automatic adjusters, when the pushrod stroke exceeds the legal
brake adjustment limit, it is an indication that a mechanical problem
exists in the adjuster itself, a problem with the related foundation
brake components, or that the adjuster was improperly installed.
The manual adjustment of an automatic adjuster to bring a brake
pushrod stroke within legal limits is generally masking a mechanical
problem and is not fixing it. Further, routine adjustment of most
automatic adjusters will likely result in premature wear of the
adjuster itself. (read: putting everyone at risk on the road) It is recommended that when brakes equipped with
automatic adjusters are found to be out of adjustment, the driver
take the vehicle to a repair facility as soon as possible to have the
problem corrected. -
However, if you adjust your self and don't really fix the problem are you not leaving yourself WIDE OPEN if you then kill a bus load of handicapped children ?
Seems to me that any SA you would try to "adjust" needs to have its brakes serviced professionally and/or slack adjuster needs to be replaced ?
Was talking about trailers (not your trailer) in this thread.
Seems to me that if your tractor brakes are good and trailer brakes are bad or weak... then if you have to stand on the brakes the tractor will stop faster than the trailer ?
Isn't that a recipe for a 70 thousand pound jackknife ? -
Me? I'll adjust 'em, if I can. Like stated above, it's not rocket science.
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Don't read too much into the premature wear yada yada. If the autoslack has to be manually adjusted than it's time to find out why,but not necessarily to the 'nearest' facility. It would IMO opinion be very good to advise shop or maintenance people of said defect. It's not like it's gonna blow up and kill some one. If it's backing off as soon as the brakes are applied than yes it's high time to get her fixed, but if it's simply not adjusting up like it should than it could be a different story. -
I might have answered this in my previous quote. But just for a reference as to how long you can go in between brake adjustments,before autoslacks part of my[the driver]weekly routine was to get under the truck and adjust all manual slacks.
Note I said weekly,that probably would vary depending on the terrain you ran in.We hauled heavy loads 1 way on flat 2 lane roads,and 1 time a week for the manuals seemed to be OK -
The manual adjustment of an automatic adjuster should only be used as a temporary measure to correct the adjustment in an emergency situation as it is likely the brake will soon be out of adjustment since the procedure usually does not fix the underlying adjustment problem.
(Note) Automatic slack adjusters are made by different manufacturers and do not all operate the same....
This is what I was referring to.
Additionally your comment (From what I have read that is the dumbest thing you can do) did not appear to be limited to auto adjusters, but manuals as well. -
I vote F, go to UPS store, buy boxes, pack your Sh#t, ship home, drive your truck to nearest terminal, call cab, go to bar, get drunk, call American Airlines, book flight home, drink some more, call cab, go to airport, get on plane (don't act stupid), fly home, get cab ride home, and then apply to another carrier who has the same issues ... repeat
... I'm guessing ... after reading other posts here, it seems that is grounds for quitting for 7 out of 10 drivers here.kw9's rock and wheelwatcher Thank this. -
Sounds like that most drivers never mark and measure push-rod stroke
until they get a ticket for it or worse a no pre-trip ticket ? -
Not me either ! Generally 2 ways I can tell if the brakes are weak is A. when you do your tug test after hooking up to your trailer[you do those don't you] the whole truck moves forward several feet. or B: you can look for a gap on the bottom shoe of each respective wheel position.
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