05 cummins isx leaking anti freeze

Discussion in 'International Forum' started by hd99_fatboy, Nov 2, 2011.

  1. hd99_fatboy

    hd99_fatboy Light Load Member

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    Dec 19, 2010
    carmel, ny
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    just had my anti freeze changed from green to red, flushed and filled, pretty sure it was done correctly, but now I see a leak, looks like from a banjo bolt just behind the thermostat housing above the manifold. the line from the banjo bolt goes to the turbo. at least it looks as if it's coming from there...

    wondering if changing anti freeze is messing up seals...

    or if this is just a loose bolt, late now and dark so I'll investigate more in the am.

    if anyone has had the same experience would appreciate some input?
     
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  3. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Seals are completely compatible with red and green. Should not be a problem. Those seals are easy to change, should be a quick fix. If they replaced your thermostats and had all that apart, chances are they got lazy and just didn't put in new sealing washers.
     
    hd99_fatboy Thanks this.
  4. hd99_fatboy

    hd99_fatboy Light Load Member

    124
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    Dec 19, 2010
    carmel, ny
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    roger that Heavyd, also my AC compressor crapped out yesterday, changing that out today, I hope, anything I should be aware of, seems fairly cut and dried...

    haven't dome my thermostat yet, but thinking maybe I should while I have everything else apart for the ac comp.
     
  5. hd99_fatboy

    hd99_fatboy Light Load Member

    124
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    Dec 19, 2010
    carmel, ny
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    ok upon doing some research on the ac compressor...

    it seems that the clutch on the compressor has taken a crap, ( all loose and particles of metal shavings )

    I'm reading about air driers and expansion valves and stuff, purging or flushing systems...

    the ac was working fine until this happened, so not sure if I have to deal with all that.
    but when opening the system, taking off the lines to the comp. I'm assuming that all the oil or refrigerant is going to come out and need to be recharged.

    and no I don't have all the tools for draining this stuff legally in my driveway.

    but I figure I can replace the comp and take it to a shop for the recharge, or am I being totally naive...?

    first time experience with ac work.

    hoping this isn't going to cost me thousands
     
  6. hd99_fatboy

    hd99_fatboy Light Load Member

    124
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    Dec 19, 2010
    carmel, ny
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    wondering, I think I may just need to replace t he compressor clutch, is that something I can do, on the vehicle, without removing the compressor, therefor not needing to open the system and forgo all the other stuff?
     
  7. hd99_fatboy

    hd99_fatboy Light Load Member

    124
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    Dec 19, 2010
    carmel, ny
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    got the comp clutch off, ordered the new compressor , which comes with he clutch, pulley and whatnot. going to try and just replace the clutch itself...
     
  8. hd99_fatboy

    hd99_fatboy Light Load Member

    124
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    Dec 19, 2010
    carmel, ny
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    also, on the anti freeze leak, the banjo bolt I spoke of was a bit loose, tightened it, hope that solves the problem, but wont know till I get the compressor back together and run it...
     
  9. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Well, simply for the sakes of safety and the environment, I don't recommend a/c work for diy'ers. I won't stop you either. I think you have a Sanden style compressor on yours, yes, buy the complete compressor with clutch. You can buy just the clutch, but you have to install it just right or it will fail, needs to be shimmed and measured, then reshimmed and what not. Not worth it. A complete unit is almost the same price anyway. A/C clutch failure is an external failure, so metal has no way of getting inside the lines, nothing to worry about there. When the a/c lines are opened technically you need to replace the receiver/drier, but if you are fast and limit the exposure to the atmosphere you can skip that. Now would be a good time for the stats too.
     
  10. hd99_fatboy

    hd99_fatboy Light Load Member

    124
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    Dec 19, 2010
    carmel, ny
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    yes sanden.
    ok, so all the oil and 134 came out, there is oil in the new one already.
    got it in the truck, all lines connected
    I have a can of pag 46 refrigerant oil as well 3 oz, should I add that?

    approximately how much 134a refrigerant are we talkin about has to go in there?
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2011
  11. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Adding oil to the a/c system is a tricky one. Unless you remove every line and component and totally clean out the oil that is already there you truely never know how much is already in the system, therefore, you truely never know how much you need to add. The best way is to replace what came out oz for oz as close as possible. Too much oil is worse than not enough. I would drain out the new oil from the new compressor into a clean container that you can measure, then do the same for the old compressor. Only refill the new compressor with the new oil to the same volume of oil the old one had. Total system capacity of PAG oil for your truck is 10 oz. Only a tiny amount should leak from the lines when you take it apart. I would say about 2-3 oz are already in the system. If your compressor has 7-8 oz in it, that would be fine and you are in the ball park. Basically you don't want to add your 3 oz bottle when the compressor already has 12 oz, plus the system also has 3 oz still in it, now your over oiled.
    You a/c system takes 3 pounds of R134.
     
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