Tell me the tools/info to replace the front crankshaft seal on '94 3406E...

If it is same as one I just did, you will need a 1/2" torque wrench, a 1/2" socket set, a 3/8" socket set, and a T45 and a T55 socket.

Drain the oil, drop the pan. Sometimes on the W900, you have to jack the engine up to get the pan out. Just be forwarned. Look at it and see if a split seal or 1 solid metal one. There are 2 types for this engine. If a split, use a jack and some wood to put under the damper. Loosen the cap and lower the crank just a smudge. Then you can "roll" out the seal and change it.

Remove the belts off the engine. Now I think it takes a 1 1/2" socket to remove the damper. Use a air ratchet that has at least 200 lbs of torwue to remove the bolt. Use a small pry and work the damper off. Sometimes you have to heat it with a torch by appliying heat and rotating it slowly, but don;t let it get too red for that means the metal is melting.

Here is where it gets really tricky. Loosen up your Bearing caps. Only loosen them. That crankshaft is heavy and you don't want it to drop out of there. Now, look at the front of the engine There is a cap that holds the seal and the crank in. Put a jack with some wood under the crank. Once it is loose, pop the seal out and swap. Sometimes you have to love tap them out with a drift.

I suggest to change out your bearings since you are this far into it if you have a lot of miles on the engine. Otherwise, start putting it back together. Now the torques are like this. Piston 1 is front and 6 is back. Torque the cranl cap to 45lbs. then do the rest of the caps with 1, 6, 5, 2, 3, 4, rear of engine. Then you do it again at 90lbs. Then again with final torque at 105. If you don't do this, you will throw a rod every time.

Then you can love tap the damper on, if you had to remove it, and then your oil pan. Clean the screen out on the oil pick up tube first. No sense to do all that and leave debris in it. Make sure pan is cleaned and mount it up. Make sure to use a new gasket. Stay away from the goo. It is worthless for these engines. That is how people gets leaks over time. Slowly go around in a clockwise motion with hand tight bolts. Then torque to 20 lbs.

Put belts back, if you had to remove, refill with oil, start up, and then take some brake clean and clean the bottom of the engine or take to engine wash. Brake clean is the technician's clean all. lol

All of this should take about 4-5 hours for a reagular rool in of just the seal. Add another 2 if you have to remove damper and another 1.5 if you change all the bearings. If at a shop, should pay no more than 8 hours and that includes the oil change. More than that and these people are ripping you off.

Good luck.

 

You will need some specific Caterpillar tooling to carry out this job, which can be rather expensive for a once off use.

Most likely you will need the distorter and ring to remove seal runner/sleeve from crankshaft.

Second tool needed is the seal installer itself. The new seal and runner requires fitment as 'one piece' to a precise depth determined by installer.

Check Monaco toolings website http://www.monacotool.com/

 

I'd find a good shop to do this...it's no more than a 3 hour job. Well worth having a pro do it... if you don't have the right tools AND the right torque settings you may pay a lot more later.

 

x1 what he said ^. this is not for the non-mechanically inclined, plus if it starts leaking you are the warranty and you get to do it again. just my .02

 

No need to drop the pan. You need the proper tools to do the job correctly.

 

That's all there is to it....I don't know WTF Shaggy76 was talking about.

Yes that is the correct tool to press the new seal in. Its not really that hard. The most difficult part is removing the old seal. The front cover is aluminum so be careful not to damage it trying to pry the old seal out.