I recently bought an '05 classic, with the 515 detroit.
13 double over,
3:58 gears
Running 24.5 low pros
This is the first 515 for me, and I have little experience w an egr engine. I've not run it enough to have an accurate fuel mpgs yet, but my feeling is so far, low 5s. I pull a 53 van, and am usually grossed between 50 and 80. I also, try to keep my weight loaded forward to decrease heavy tandem drag, and air flow turbulence behind the fairings. I'm from the old school, where you ran detroits at 1700, cats @ 2000... I've been reading about the 1200 to 1500 rpms on the newer engines, which I plan to try out. I usually run @ speed limit, or just above, so, 60 to 75 mph. Something I've noticed however, is in the top hole, at 70 mph, I'm taching just above 15, but my boost pressure runs high, and sometimes, never falls off at all, even on flat ground. I can drop to 12th tho, and run 1700, and the boost pressure is much less. This "seems" to do a little better on fuel, from what I can tell so far. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with this. I'm thinking of getting it in to someone to get tuned, thinking mabey its something in the ecm settings? The last 13 double over I had was behind a 3406e, and it didn't do that..
Otherwise, any advice re improving fuel mileage for this application will be appreciated.
Be it mechanical, or adjustments to driving habits. Thanks, and happy to meet everyone.
515 detroit, fuel ecconomy/ turbo questions
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by bigfish, Mar 8, 2012.
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I should add that the instance I mentioned was on more or less level ground, running on cruise. My boost pressure however even has a slight reading (according to my gauge) at idle, showing 2-3 lbs... Wondering if i have a sticky waste gate or something.. Idk even if this turbo has a waste gate.
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I try to keep boost under 20 psi and rpms between 1300-1400 on my 470 to get the best fuel mileage. Depending on the wind, that isn't possible sometimes, and the fuel bill reflects it. If you are running that Detroit at 1700 cruising, it's no wonder your getting 5mpg. The easiest way to improve fuel mileage is to educate the driver. If your really concerned about fuel mileage that truck will never hit 70 mph, and will stay between 57-62, wherever you can stand it and your gearing is right.
bigfish Thanks this. -
Well, I know slower speeds can certainly make a difference. Sometimes a huge one. But that's part of the reason I went with this particular spec, to be able to run at lower rpms. Fuel savings are key, but time is also money. As little as 5 to 6 mph makes a huge difference on a log page. I'm not above pencil stroking logs here and there, but no matter how I log it, 2 extra hours on the road, means less time in the sleeper. Or 100 miles less per day, means less completed loads every week. I want my cake, and eat it too. I used to run my little century, 470 balls to the wall all the time, and did 6, with it wrapped out. I "think" I should be able to haul the same trailer, same speed, at less rpms and do the same, or better on fuel. At least, I would think so? Aerodynamics not withstanding.
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The Detroit really likes 1400-1500 for mpg. 1400-1600 for performance. Whatever the 1400-1500 gives you for speed is going to be the optimum. Unless you are on flat ground and light with no big wind, then running it a little lower will not kill mpg. But keeping a lot of peddle on the lower rpms is a waste of fuel. You are having to use fuel to overcome rotational inertia at the lower RPMs on a Series 60. Some of the newer engines like DD15 and MaxxForce do fine at lower RPM, but the Series 60 isn't one of them when it comes to pulling heavy, hills, and wind. You need that 1400-1600 range to build max boost without having to over fuel it. With the right RPM, you get optimum boost and you do not have to push the peddle so far.
I just ordered a glider with a pre-emission Series 60. Have it spec'd so that 1450 rpm sets me right on 60 mph. 1600 puts me on 67 mph. Perfect for the hills and weight I pull on a lot of 60-65 mph roads I am on, and will be in direct drive for best performance. And I will still have two gears above that I can use if I want. 18 speed tied to a 2.79 rear end. 17th at 1400 RPM puts me right on 68 mph. Perfect range for running I-80 west of Lincoln, NE.
Along with the other specs on this truck, it ought to be well into the high 7's mpg on average and will bust 8's once in a while.bigfish Thanks this. -
I guess its the over fueling that I'm thinking of. Mind you, the turbo/rpms I'm mentioning are only in top hole/od. But top hole, the boost jumps to 40 lbs, a lot! And 12th it stays around 30, or less, but higher rpms. This truck is equipped with an air ride steer axle too. I'm not discounting it may have been set up for some kind of oversized hauling, and perhaps I need to have the computer settings checked out. I gotta get some trailer tires, and get my air-weigh hooked up in here, but getting it scoped out is my next priority after that.
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I will say, I love having air in the front. This is the best riding truck since my '00 w9 back in the day. Now that was a nice truck!
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stop worrying about boost and worry about the tach.
These newer engines don't like the old school method of driving.
Drive in the power band and let the computer do the engine management. 1100-1600 RPM.
If you don't, start going back to progressive shifting too. Get it into the top hole as quickly as possible. Set the cruise for that 1400-1500 RPM and let it run.bigfish Thanks this. -
Forget the boost gauge, less RPM is less fuel, slow down, drive like you have an egg between your right foot and the go pedal,, it works! progressive shifting, i rarely rev over 1300, and if light 1200. When i am running flat land i go the slowest, its the easiest place to bring your average mpg up. i left Miss last week same time and load as one of our company drivers, he drove 105kms right at the limiter, me at 95kms, we still got to the same place i was 1/2 hr behind him after 11 hrs, 10 mph wont get you there that much faster, yes on paper it looks like a lot of miles, but in the real world its not all that much different, drive smarter!!
bigfish Thanks this. -
Thanks guys, I'm trying the progressive shifting. So far, no real issues there. Elroy, re driving slower. It's very true that it can save fuel. But its also very true that its a sacrifice on time. You said you were 1/2 hour behind after only 105 km.. I'm not looking @ my speedo right now. What is that, about 80 miles? Multiply that by 10, which is my average day. Yes, it makes a HUGE difference on time. In real world numbers, I started out back when driving a 57 mph swift truck. Now, I drive as fast as I want. It's the difference in a 3000 or 5000 mile week. I don't do 5000 always,cuz its tough to log. But close. Depends on the runs and the roads. Say, between 4 and up to 5 per week. I get flat rate on my loads. So, the more I do, the more i earn. If I cud double my mpgs, that would be one thing. But 1 mpg, give or take isn't enough to justify giving up that much work. I do want the best mileage I can get, but at the same time, I have a job to get done. I can't sacrifice the job for sake of minor fuel savings.
It's like generators. Yeah, they're great, and they do save fuel, and some wear and tear. But at 12000$ ea, its a luxury I just can't afford. There are a lot of old sayings that people use, ie idleing burns 1 gallon per hour. I have never found this to be true. The reality, in my experience is more like .25% of that. And, when the weather is nice, I shutter down. There is also something to be said however for starter wear, and the fact that a cold engine burns more fuel than one that's warm. Also, team trucks get better road mileage than solo trucks, because all the axles are warmed up, and roll a little easier. Tire pressure, fifth wheel placement, weight distribution. They all contribute.
I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just saying there are other factors to consider. I'm working on a happy medium. I need the best mileage I can get, without sacrificing productivity.
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