Loss Of Power d12 engine

If you have a kysor box, unplug it and put a cotter pin in terminal p and the other end in terminal R. That will bypass the shut down system. If it works, it does NOT necessarily mean its the box though. If the check engine light flashes for up to 15 seconds before shutting down its likely your coolant level sensor.

 

I haven't checked the kysor box yet, because i thought I had fixed the issue. What does the kysor box look like?

All in the last week:

1) Test drove truck, and it was stalling out. I could cycle the key while rolling and it would fire right back up.

2) So finding I was low on coolant, filled it, and replaced the coolant level sensor. Still had the problem.

3) So i decided to put my old TPS back in that I had replaced last summer trying to fix a different low power issue. I THOUGHT this had fixed it, because it then ran great for about 1000 miles.

Then I pulled the dog house cover off yesterday, and had the fuse panel up and down, and after I put the doghouse back on, the stalling out problem came back! It's an instant shutoff, but all the gauges keep working, it's just like the injectors quit firing.

So this leads me to think:

1) There is a loose wire under the dash that can cause the injectors to quit firing, and I bumped it when I swapped the TPS and 'fixed it', and then bumped it again when I pulled the doghouse off, and caused it to start acting up again.

or

2) Maybe it's coincidence? I'm thinking of replacing all the engine sensors tomorrow just to be safe. Maybe it's a sensor acting up?


I don't think my CEL works unfortunately.

 

The kysor box is a little black box, about four inches square. It has two harnesses that go into it. Usually it's tucked under the dash above the doghouse or left side of the steering column. It should say kysor on it.

 

Behind or under a seat too.

 

If you have a ECM you don't have a kysor box. Does the check engine light come on?

 

If possible, snap a photo of the fuel pump area and post it.

 

I have a computer on the side of the engine. I'm going to be in the shop this afternoon replacing sensors, I'll get you a photo then. Thanks

Oh, and no I don't get a check engine light. But I'm not sure if it even works.

 

Here are a couple pics of the fuel pump, and of the computer.

I was at the dealer today and I got it scheduled to go in next weekend to have it scanned for codes. And they are going to test the coolant temp sensor, they thought it could cause an intermittant problem also. I sure wouldn't mind getting it fixed before then though

 

Ok. So we know you don't have a kysor box.

When you turn on the ignition, your yellow and red engine lights should come on for a few seconds then go out. That will tell you if they work.

So if they do work, and they are NOT coming on when it's shutting down, it's not a sensor. It would be more likely a mechanical problem.

If they are coming on just before the engine is stalling out, the ECM should store a code. If no codes are present, it's likely a power supply problem to the ECM.

Just a shot in the dark here, but is there any chance someone could have put something in your fuel tank? I've seen garbage bags, coffee cups, gloves, and all kinds of things in tanks. So they work there way over to the suction pipe in the tank, blocks the fuel, the engine quits, suction stops, and the item floats away from the pipe allowing the engine to start again and run until it gets back over to the pipe. Maybe troll the inside of the tank with a coat hanger or something and see. Just a thought.

 

Thanks Graglor, I'll check all that out today. Any idea what pin to the ECM needs constant power? Maybe I could just run a cheater wire

If it was something blocking or restricting fuel flow, wouldn't it kind of starve for fuel and be more like a 'sluggish' or 'detuned' power down for a bit before dieing? When mine dies it is very much instant, and it looses 100% power, it's not running at all, just turning over from coasting. cycle the key and vrroom it's going again.