EGR quit, its now welded shut, did I mess up?

True, but if we can trick it with a resistor solution, it can be restored to OEM condition in a matter of seconds. Just unplug the dongle and plug the EGR back in.

 

My solution to the CEL was a small piece of electrical tape

 

I will go try about 12 different resistors to see if one of them works. I went to assemble the resistor box and the PCB was so cheap that they didn't tin the solder pads, making it impossible to solder to without prepping it, which I didn't do. I'll just stick the resistor leads in the holes and see if any of them work.

The beep-flash code is 2349 which is "2349 EGR Valve Control Circuit - Current Below Normal, or Open Circuit" according to the ISX fault code sheet.

So hopefully a resistor will work.

It's trying to rain, but I'll put on my boots and go try it now. Watch for an update within a couple of hours.

Gears: I'd tape the light too, but then could miss another problem possibly, so I'd like to figure a way to build a dongle to plug into the EGR lead instead.

 

Makes sense to me Vision. I'll be watching so maybe I can do the same and remove the tape someday

 

I wish I could say that I had success with the resistors, but alas, no go. Maybe the ECM is looking for a curve in the resistance as the position of the valve is changed. If so, that could explain why a steady state value doesn't work. I also only tried about 10 resistors.

 

I also tried just shorting it, which threw a code, and CEL.

 

Was thinking again...yeah I know...scary thought!! lol

What about something like an O2 simulator. Many people have been toying with these for a long time. They trick the second set of O2 sensors...the ones that make sure you have a Cat on the vehicle. This is all they measure. The issure is...much like this EGR probably is built. Their computers read variable voltage from the sensor. Not just a set voltage. Which is what you are getting from a single resistor. I did alot of research on these when I had my old Z71. I tried to find the information....but somewhere on the web is a detailed explanation of how to make your own...so it will show variable voltage. Its a very simple circuit board. I know this is getting more complicated than the tape over the light or just running it...but I know what you mean about it annoying you and wanting it to be right. Try finding the information on it...I actually think its on an s10 site talking about the 4.3 liter engines. Anyways...if you could rig up a small board that would send the correct signal range to the ECM you'd probably lick it. You just need to know what that is. If you had a klien or any other VOM that would record you could see what that range was and then fashion your little board to that. I wish I could find the threads that talked about it...but I know they are out there and think it would work in this case. Something to try. Eventually you'll get it and have a breakthrough!! Is frustrating though! lol

 

I will probably ask the machinist to fabricate a plate for it, and eventually have Mr. Haney flash the egr right outta that computer. Next turbo could/should be a PDI.

 

To much electronics in the engines now a days.
Not sure why any one would put an EGR in a diesel exhaust any way, It just gets clogged up with carbon after a while.
EGR systems in a diesel lowers combustion temperature, This makes combustion less efficient, compromising economy and power. ("Not what we want at all")
EGR also increases soot production, though this was mitigated in the US by the simultaneous introduction of diesel particulate filter and yet another problem in the system to deal with.
EGR systems can also add abrasive contaminants and increase engine oil acidity, which in turn can reduce engine longevity.

EGR systems are ok for gas engines but no good for diesel engines


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation