I have a 1994 KW W900 with the Cat 3406B. Haven't had the truck running in well over 6 months and started it for the first time today, went to move it and realized that it's having some brake issues that won't let it move. Both air tanks fill up and kick off where they should and the applied brake pressure gauge spikes to the 'danger zone' for no reason. The bobtail brake lights are on as well. The brake pedal is extremely stiff and sticks in whatever position it's in when you let off the pedal, in order to get it to come back up you have to pull it up by hand. Pumping the brake pedal, and trolley valve, has no effect on the brakes. The parking brakes will release but the service brakes are engaged on all 10 wheels.
I'm guessing that the foot valve has gone out or could it be something else?
1994 KW W900 wierd brake problems
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by zx150, Apr 25, 2012.
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I would lean towards the foot valve because the steer axle brakes are applied as well. the trolly brake has nothing to do with the tractor brakes unless it is a strait truck I would pull the brake pedal and rubber boot and see if the piston is rusted that rides in the top off the foot valve.I can't think of anything else that would allow all the brakes to apply other then the foot valve since front and rear brakes are both run from the foot valve if it was only the drive axles locking then I could see some problems with the emergency side staying applied
zx150 Thanks this. -
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Try the bendix website or haldex I know its a tractor that's what I was saying about the hand brake if it were a strait truck then that could be a possibility
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If the brake puck is froze in the foot valve, which is what it sounds like, you service the puck from inside the cab(at least on some trucks, internationals and petes I know for sure). Remove the brake pedal, it should be under the pedal, with a rubber boot covering it, take the boot off, try to remove puck, you may need a vicegrip. Once its out, clean it up in a wire wheel, you can also clean out the bore with some fine emery cloth. Before you put puck back in, I usually coat if with a light oil. I know some guys use antiseize, to me that's a little thick, but to each his own.
zx150 Thanks this. -
As far as the brake puck/piston goes, are they usually splined or smooth all the way around? Just so I know what to expect when I get in there with the vice grip. -
The puck and bore should be perfectly round, so you should be able to rotate the puck loose.
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Looks like I might be needing a new foot valve. Locked the vise grip onto the puck and was not able to get it to rotate or do anything at all. There's a lip on the top of the plunger that I tried to use to get it up with leverage but had no luck, it's gotta be seized or rusted all the way down. There's an access hole in the brake pedal itself which I stuck a long flat tip thru and into the lip, all it seemed to do was damage the lip on the top of the plunger. I'm not 100% sure but it looks like the brake pedal is actually part of the valve, does that sound right? What can I expect to shell out for a replacement?
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Usually the brake pedal just pins onto the plunger on the valve. Havent seen any where its all one assembly... but its a possibility.
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