Borg Warner 178063 Turbo??(3406B)

I'm talking down shifting at those R's in higher gears, of course in lower gears I may upshift at 18 or so but as I progress through the gears I wind it a little more but never over 2100, except in direct (next to the last hole) then I'll wind it 23 to 2400 before going to overdrive. A lot of people say your just burning fuel at those RMP's but I'm still getting up and I have a huge gap between the last two holes. Red I hear you on the MPG's but you pull a flat, when I run Texas I can get 6 to 6 1/2 with a van or reefer, but here in the southest pulling mountains and loaded heavy I might get as low as 4 1/2. If a person is after fuel economy then he probably don't need to be doing alot of HP mods, although in some cases it actually helps fuel milage, I've always been told if you've got a big horse you have to feed him.

 

Shoot I think even at my age I could jump out at 55 and still catch it before it hit the ditch.

 

Well heck I'll add my 0.02$ to this......

I just did a load to Little Rock, AR, I was grossing about 75k. I ran from ohio down thru KY across the WK down 51 across 155 down 55 to 40. I ran 5 over the posted speed limit(and then some). With my FLD120 and my trailer with a slider i got 6.47 mpg. I don't run over 1800 r's and will lug down to 1200 but mostly shift at 13-1400 but i have a 13spd. I've never ran my motor over 1800 but may a handful of times. I used to get 6.8 regularly running ohio and ky running 80k or close. I can't tell ya or remember how many turns I did on the screws and the turbo I got no one seems to know what it is other than its a BW. When I bought it I was told it was good to 600-700 hp.

The timing will effect turbo response. If you have to much fuel and not enough timing advance your gonna be sluggish from the get go.

 

To be timed correctly or even adavanced it needs to be meter timed, about the only place you will find to do this is CAT and maybe a handful of shops even have the equipment to do it, but it can be done without it.

Adjusting the timing is a delicate process, and whomever told you that was the process of what descibed above may need their head checked.

First off you will need a pin to lock the pump cam, there is a plug on the side of the pump housing, remove this and you can use a 3/8" drill bit and drop in the hole, it is best to ahve two people, one to bar the engine over and one to put pressure on the bit, when it drops in it should lock fairly tightly. Once you hav the pump locked you can remover the timing advance cover, you will see that the are 4 nuts and 4 bolts, you will want to loosen the bolts if they are like my 7FB the 12 point 3/8"s head. Do not remove these completely. After you have these loose you will need to look on either side of the bell housing, there will be a plug facing the flywheel, if you are on the pump side of the engine there is also a plate close to the plug and remove the bottom bolt, again you will need two people, your engine should be very close if it hasnt been messed with, as someone hold pressure on the bolt insterted into where you removed the plug you should be able to bar the engine forwards or backward to get this to lock into the flywheel. Once you have these both locked this would be what they call field timed, the pump is match pretty close to the engine, but your wanting a little extra so I would mark the balancer some how and then unlock the flywheel then you can turn the engine backwards (counter-clockwise from the front) to move it a 1/4" on the balancer. This should put you advanced. Once you have it set you can tighten the 4 bolts back down.

Im not sure how your adavance is, but it should have a spring return for the weight carrier, you will still want to look in the nose of the advance and make sure the weights are collapsed, you can use a ling skinny screwdirver to push them back, if it is partially advanced when you tighten it down it will never be right.

 

You have to lock your pump first, then loosen bolts in timing advance then roll engine back, you will not be able to turn the engine back if the bolts are still tight. When you go to turn engine to advance it only remove the flywheel lock, the pump has to stay where it is until you lock everything back down.

The proper bolt to lock the flywheel is already in the engine, it is the lower bolt of the cover I mention on the pump side of the engine, it is a fairly long 3/8" bolt. As I said, there will be a pipe plug and cover on the front side of the bell housing. It would be nice to have a picture to show you, but I am not close to my B model, maybe les has a picture of what Im talking about.

 

Im no expert mechanic but when we bought this glider was told that if you have a upgraded turbo does you no good unless you have the exhaust flow to run through it. So they add a high flow ceramic manifold and a high flow exhaust instead of stock and some washable high air flow air filter. for what its worth.
Dont want to bottle neck any part of the air intake flow to through the engine and out the exhaust. Gotta let it breath.