Need spec help for an OTR KW

I am preparing to spec a new KW for use as a tanker yanker leased to a company I have been driving with as a company driver for 10 yrs. I am very familiar with their business and I know for certain that I will have to stay with as low a tare wt as possible due to our customer's needs. I am currently running a company owned and specd T-660 with Cummins ISX15 450ST, Eaton Fuller straight 10 trans FRO17210C, DSP40 rears at 3.55 ratio, 13200 GAWR front axle, aprox 230" WB with a 62" Aerocab sleeper equipped with the Climacab electric APU. This truck has all drum brakes and a sliding 5th wheel. The fuel tanks are 100 gal aluminum, 1 on each side. The truck has 24.5 polished aluminum rims with dual rears. I am pretty sure the truck is an all steel chassis, and the full GVWR is 51200 with an on-the-door chassis scale wt of 16830 lbs before APU, PTO to rear, and aluminum fitting box and PTO shaft extensions for connecting tractor to trailer equipment. I have never weighed this tractor to get an actual weight of truck, but I intend to do that this week when it is fully loaded with my personal stuff and fuel to get a number and I will post it here asap. This truck is considered adequate for the needs of our customers, and appears to be avg MPG around 6.0-6.5 (including MT miles), but I have had situations where, due to trailer tare wts as a result of specialized equipment, had to be cautious at shippers loading between 45000-46000. I cannot run over 80000 gross, EVER, due to the fact that I am doing HazMat primarily, and shippers share responsibility in scale safety. I don't run baffled trailers, the liquid slosh is a consideration.

OK, now what I want to do here with the truck I own is to beat the dealer, so-to-speak

I want to out-spec the company. I have consulted by phone with my local KW dealer's sales rep and he has informed me that it is possible to reduce wt using aluminum chasis parts that are as strong as the steel and also mentioned aluminum 5th wheels. I don't know if he is pulling my leg, but he says the T-660 and the W-900L are basically the same truck chassis, just the aerodynamics are different. Of course, I want a W900 with a 72" or 86" mid-roof sleeper with the Cummins 550-600 power and a 13 or 18 spd trans for the best fuel economy possible with the higher hp if this could be possible.

I have done a bit of research on this board before posting and I see at least 1 member here that is real high on disc brakes, and I would think that this would reduce considerable wt from a tractor as well as be much safer, I have never used this type of braking system on any truck, and I really would like to get comments from drivers of these systems.

I need a bigger sleeper than I have currently even if I have to stay with the T-660 Aero truck, the 62" is too small for my comfort, and I currently do not have room for refrigerator and microwave in the layout of the sleeper. This is costing me a fortune in food bills. After running a Proheat unit for 6 yrs and then switching to this electric "APU", I have found that the ClimaCab electric "APU" is a real con after running this one for a year OTR, and I absolutely will be installing the Carrier ComfortPro with shorepower option on ANY truck I own.

I need opinions and facts from drivers and owners, as well as mechanics and sales reps, on how you would spec a new truck for my application, and I can tell you I am already sold on KW, but I would consider using a different brand if the weight was reduced significantly from what KW can do given my comfort requirements. The best comfort for me per lb is critical, as I run between 120000 and 150000 miles per year in a truck, in other words, I LIVE in a truck. I have to use the truck for my office as well. I have to consider fuel economy, durability-I expect to use this truck for 7-10 yrs-, and truck looks pulling a tank trailer, while at the same time increasing my comfort level as both owner and the operator.

I would prefer to stay under $180000 investment in the truck before outfitting with APU and required company specific hardware, fees and licenses, permits, etc.,but I could go a bit higher and remain within my business plan. (I do not wish to discuss this plan here, and yes, I realize that is a very high truck cost compared to what I see owner-ops on this board spending. Suffice it to say there will be no "payment" to be made here; the equipment will be bought outright)

I will be placing my order within 3 weeks, and I am posting this request in order to prevent as many pitfalls as I can in the truck spec process. I am currently attempting to cram as much knowledge as possible before taking the plunge into a completely new aspect of trucking, as I have always just driven what a company engineer spec'd in my carreer, and I have always been successful. Now I gotta do this on my own, and frankly, I am a bit scared.

I appreciate all helpful comments, and I am posting here because I read and respect the members opinions and experience on this board. Thanks In Advance to all!

 

bagman- Excellent information at those links! I am sold on the discs, I sure hope KW will put 'em on the truck with those aluminum unihubs...I suppose they will since Pete is doing it...I am afraid my tare weight just went up though...

Cat- I have no need for a pump or compressor on the tractor staying with the people I intend to lease to, all that stuff is on their trailers. The only things I need to add for use with this company will be the Quallcom, the pto shaft from tranny to the rear of tractor to drive the pump/compressor, and the 5 short pto shafts required to connect the drive line between the tractor and the pump/compressor equipment. ALL the equipment, ( pump, compressor, hoses and meters on some of the trailers) is located ON THE TRAILER. This is one of the primary reasons I like this company, ease of unloading and washout just dropping the trailer. I need LOOKS here, and I just think cutting tire size makes the truck LOOK bad. I really only need to reduce enough weight from the company T-660 I currently operate for them to compensate for the additional living space I require. I don't intend adding more than 100 lbs in microwave and refrigerator weight to this space, it's the additional weight of the sleeper and potential increase in wheelbase length required for it I have to balance here. I don't have a real feel for how much weight this increase in living space is going to add up to, but in order to assure that I can continue to service our customers, I need to try to keep the weight pretty close to what I have in the company truck specs I listed above.

alaga- That last sentence hits the nail right on the head! I gotta live with my decisions here for 10 yrs! This spec'n is starting to remind me of marriage vows...at least in the case of my first wife...LOL That is precisely why I am looking for as much brainstorming input as I can get before actually placing the order.

I guess what is bothering me here the most is the not knowing how much weight that living space is going to cost me I know I have to have it, I just don't know what kind of weight it's actually going to add to my tare. I know the company I work for has a guy they pay good money to in order to do exactly what I am trying to do with their trucks, and the truck I am currently driving is a direct result of his labors. I am also certain that he has to stay below my budget a good bit to please his boss, so I guess a different way to look at this thing would be asking the question how much reduction in weight can extra money buy? Is it going to be possible to buy the living space I need without making the sacrifices in tare weight that these esteemed and obviously astute members have already suggested here in replies? I can't sacrifice dual wheels-I run Hazmat, I know others do it, but what if I blow a drive tire? I have not had to be towed in for repairs in 7 yrs, and that was because the fan launched into my radiator with only 20000 miles on a new truck. When that happenned I got to the next exit and OFF the interstate before calling for tow.
I wonder how I can determine what thickness frame I have right now...I am not sure where to take this measurement. I don't want to get into a pickle by reducing strength of the frame too much. I don't know if my current frame is over-engineered enough to cut weight here or not. I intend to ask this question in conversation with the company spec man next week. I'll be sure and post this stuff as I get answers.

I certainly appreciate the quick feedback here from you gentlemen, this board continues to impress me with the caliber of truckers that post. Every response is being carefully considered, and I am going on the road for a couple of weeks starting tomorrow, but I will continue to log on and read all suggestions at a minimum, post back as I have the time and connectivity to do so.
Thank you all so much

 

Man, with the exception of the color, you certainly hit EXACTLY what I WANT in my truck! I am not sure if that is the sofa-bed on the bottom bunk as I have never seen one stretched out, but I really want to be able to use the bottom bunk area as my living and office space and a top bunk for sleeping. I have a 23" flat screen and VuCube sattelite system in my current T660 that will, of course, have to be incorporated into my new truck, and I anticipate a lot more time working on paperwork in the new truck than I currently spend. I need a place to work besides the driver seat.

My dillemma here is due to my need to run 45000 in a heavy trailer for my customers, as this is where the money gets made. The company trailers vary in weight and the newer ones I would have NO problem with this...it's just the older ones and the ones that have heavy metering equipment on them that worry me. I rarely actually NEED to run these heavy metered trailers, it's just that this company appears to have too many of them for the business they have requiring them, and too few of the trailers that are compatible with the truck I need to pull them. From experience with this company I am fairly certain that I will be put in the position of having to use one of these whether I like it or not at some point. I REALLY like this family that owns this company, they are as honest a bunch as I have ever worked with in this business, and they have worked very hard over 50 years in developing a good rate paying customer base. Bottom line is I really don't want to let them down or reduce the dollars they can make with their business, or the customer base they have built, by incompatibility issues. I may have no other choice, but it will bother me if this happens. I gave my word to do my very best to stay as low on tare weight as possible to the owner when I was offered this opportunity, and I keep my word.

No offense taken btw, I realize that I am VERY lucky to have this opprtunity at total ownership without risking going out of business by missing payments on a truck. I wish I could give this opportunity to every truck driver out there struggling, and I am certain that many deserve this opportunity more than myself. I have no bills at all personally other than utilities at my home, but this business with a truck does not pay those, they are covered. It's just me and my loving wife now, both of my children are grown and through college with careers of their own, and I am certain my grandchildren will never suffer. I am a truck driver now and I can't stop...as John Lee Hooker so aptly put it, "I love the life I live, and I live the life I love" I have been blessed, and I am humbled by the blessing.

I can't thank you, and all responders here, enough for helping me by taking time to add input here as this is all heavy on my mind currently. I am sure we will all cross paths as I run all 48 and CA ... we may have already met at a tankwash somewhere for that matter, and I owe each of you a full steak dinner next time I see ya!
Seriously, thanks all