New CB owner need help tuning please.

Unless you've already used that antenna & mount in the past and know that it's already tuned correctly, you've got an equation with several variables, and no way to solve it yet. If the radio isn't putting out all the power it's supposed to, then you might see what you're reporting regardless of the state of the antenna, the mount, the coax, etc.
My suggestion, if cost savings is paramount (over time spent, for instance), is to borrow a "known-good" radio from someone to use as a signal source to tune your antenna. Once that's done, it's done; SWR is frequency dependent, so any properly tuned CB hooked to that antenna (assuming you don't move the mount or change anything nearby) will not make it necessary to tune the antenna again.
If your new Uniden (I don't see any reference to that model number in the service literature, BTW) still won't generate enough signal to hit the calibration mark on the meter, either the radio has been....ummm.... fooled with, or the meter has a fault.
Historically, though, toolboxes present a whole set of problems for antenna mounting, having to do with distance from the cab, available groundplane area, DC ground isolation/noise (from the bed), and such. That probably has a lot to do with the idea of your apparent SWR asymmetry between Ch 1 & Ch 40.
But still, you present too many variables, if indeed all that stuff is newly installed in your pickup.
If you're able to fill in a few of the blanks, or are able to try your radio in a friend's system, and his radio in your pickup, etc., get back to us, we'll have more to go by.
Hope this helps.
BTW, kudos on going with the shortened coax. It's easy to get sucked into the vortex of magic length mysticism; ya' did good on that part!
73,
Handlebar

 

The 18' thing is true, I read it on the internet

 

LOL! Ya' got me!

 

Find a rep. CB shop

 

Good that you're familiar with WiFi, and are used to working with low power levels. WiFi has the advantage of using spread spectrum, though, and when it's coupled with software that does error checking, it has a chance to re-send data that gets missed because of noise on one of the frequencies when a packet is sent. Statistically the next time it's sent, it'll be on a different frequency.
If you've got $20 spare, hit a Radio Shack and grab one of their famous 102" whips. It'll be more broadbanded than any shortened antenna, and will have less loss as well. There are no fine wires wrapped around a Fiberglas® pole to suffer a hairline crack, and it's about the most skookum radiator you'll find. The only potential problem with them on a pickup is overhead clearance, but at least yours will be a little lower than if it were on your roof, so you should be OK. And recall that only an antenna will boost your receive symmetrically with your transmit
As for static, see if you have it only with the engine running. And since I'm still confused with the model number of your radio (please check that Pro 580w again?) I don't know if your radio has anything marked ANL or NB ("Automatic Noise Limiter" or "Noise Blanker") on it. ANL is for noise typical of that from electric motors, like wipers and windows; NB is for pulses, like spark ignition.
There are two wonderful resources for "all things noise-related" that I go by:
"The Amateur Radio Handbook", put out by the ARRL (arrl.org) A bit spendy, but the information in them never really goes out of date. The one I had when I got into radio in 1961 finally gave out after being thumbed through all these years. And the newer ones cover technologies that didn't exist back then, too.
Also, www.k0bg.com is like an online bible about mobile HF installs and problems. Run down the left side to "Noise ID" and click on that.
I spent most of my grown-up life north of 60 deg N. and before cellular, so I spent lotsa time on either 3.925, 7.258, or 27.185.
Between that website and the 102" from The Shack ("Radio Shack: You've got questions, we've got blank stares!"), you should have a more enjoyable trip.
Hope one of those will help.
73,
Handlebar