New CB owner need help tuning please.

OK, now I gotcha. Thanks for the pic and clarifying. <oooh, bad pun...>
First, the static issue. Part of what you're hearing is just the effect of all the stages of amplification, all making different frequency bands louder -- 27 mHz range, first & 2nd i.f., and audio, and every amp has some sort of noise figure. That's why there's a squelch circuit. It's there specifically to mute the audio circuit when there isn't enough signal coming in to make it worth your while to listen to. Since it's AM rather than FM, though, it's important to set it to "threshold", or just right at (or just past) the point where the noise mutes when nobody is talking. If you turn it up much farther, you'll seriously limit the radio's ability to hear anything.
Working opposite that (sorta) is the RF Gain control, which tells the input of the receiver how much to amplify the signals. For most situations, that should be all the way up (clockwise). The RF Gain control is a little more linear in its function than the Squelch control; it will be more forgiving, and less like an on-off switch with signal levels than the Squelch.
As for tuning the antenna, forget about the actual numbers for now. Since the idea is just to minimize the reflected signal, please allow me to suggest an alternative method to tune your antenna.
Put the radio on Ch 1. Key the radio.
Set the meter to Reflected, turn the Sensitivity as far up as it takes to get the needle up as far as you can get it without hitting the stop, or at least the highest marked point that you can find on the scale. Make a note of that point.
Unkey the radio, change to Ch 20, key, make a note of the meter reading.
Unkey the radio, change to Ch 40, key, make a note of the meter reading.

Ideally, we want the reading on Ch 20 to be the lowest. If the lowest of the three readings is Ch 1, then the antenna is a bit on the long side, and the fix would be to shorten the whip. Conversely, if the lowest reading is on Ch 40, then the whip is on the short side, and it needs to be longer.

In both cases, the needed change may be as little as 1/4" or less. And the more an antenna is "compressed" physically from a full-sized (quarterwave, or 102") antenna, the smaller the change you have to make in its length to compensate for tuning, because it's still affecting a similar proportion of the existing physical length.

Once you have the lowest of the three reflected values happening on Ch 20, you can do a couple of things. From your description of how you were using your SWR meter, I'm not sure if you had the procedure correct or not. For most meters, there's a Forward/Reflected switch, and a Sensitivity (or Calibrate) knob. You set the switch to Forward, key up, run the knob to bring the meter up to the calibrate mark, then switch to Reflected, and read SWR directly. It sounded like maybe you were readjusting the knob while in the Reflected position.

The other thing you can do is to fine tune the channel with the lowest reflected signal. As a 4-ft antenna, your antenna will be somewhat sharper (narrower bandwidth) than a longer one. With the Ch 1,20,40 tuning method, you might be optimized for Ch 14 or Ch 27. So if you've got infinite patience, you can kinda sneak up on whatever channel you'll be using most of the time, but the amount of change you have to make will become infinitesimal. Add to that having to get back inside and close the door for each measurement (you *are* doing that already, right? It does make a difference at these frequencies), and then get back out for another teensy adjustment (lather, rinse, repeat), can get old pretty fast. And the on-air performance won't really be noticeable, either.
Geez, I think my fingers are smoking...I can't read the symbols on the key caps anymore....
73,
Handlebar

 

If I understand you, when you key the mic on *any* channel with the switch in the Reflected position, the meter reads below 1.1? If that is correct, then you're golden. For normal operations, leave the RF Gain turned all the way up, turn the Squelch left til the noise starts, then right until it just stops, and leave it there. Or leave the squelch "open" so you can hear the noise, you'll also hear the weakest of signals. At least you'll know for sure if there's any activity on the channels around you. I don't remember if you said where you are, or if you're so remote that there's no expectation of anyone predictably on any one channel.
Have you got an ohmmeter? It'd be good at this point to check to make sure that your coax has continuity where it should. Unhook it from the radio and the antenna. You should show a short from the center pin on one end to the center pin on the other, and from the outer shell on one end to the outer shell on the other end. You should see infinite resistance (an open circuit -- set on the highest resistance range) from the outer shell to the center pin; do this test at each end to double check your work from the first test.
After that, I'm out of ideas. But we still don't know if your $10 radio works right to start with. What part of the country (or what country, for that matter) are you in?
Handlebar

 

I think your radio is messed up.....