I hope someone can help me- I have 2 problems with the Eaton 13 spd in my truck.
Problem #1: When I'm in high range and select "overdrive" the transmission will shift just fine.....once- the problem comes when I go back to "direct" to move to the next higher gear; once I move through neutral the transmission will start grinding and not let me go to the next higher gear unless I either slow down or rev the motor really high to get to the next higher gear.
Problem #2: This usually happens just once a day, usually in the morning with the first load, I'm hauling AB. Sitting still with the transmission in Granny gear and the clutch pedal fully depressed- the transmission will start to grab, as if I'm letting up the clutch, the truck will start shaking and lugging the motor down, I can't take it out of gear without shutting the motor off, and I have to hold the brake down to keep the truck from moving.
Once I release the clutch and start moving and go through the gears (shifting like a regular 9 spd because of problem #1) when I come back to get loaded again I can sit there in gear with the clutch depressed and it's fine. I'm using the Ace "snap on" clutch brake because their easy to replace and I have had to replace 2 in the last 4 months.
These problems are driving me crazy! I need either a really good mechanic or a priest to get this working right- any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
13 spd problems
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by kattiebar, Sep 23, 2012.
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Problem #1: When up shifting, anytime you are going to select direct in your shift, engage the stick in the next gear, then select direct on the splitter and bring the throttle up at the same time. This will smoothly complete your shift and no grinding.
Problem #2: The purpose of the clutch brake is to stop the trans to enter a gear. By standing on the clutch pedal while the engine/trans is trying to operate, you are adding additional load by being on the clutch brake. When operating in gear such as to unload, the clutch pedal should be one or more inches off the floor to avoid getting onto the clutch brake. Your clutch will still fully release one or two inches off the floor when properly adjusted. Which brings me to the truck moving forward with the clutch released: It sounds as if the clutch is not fully releasing when cold and after you warm it up operates correctly. To correct this will require either a proper clutch adjustment or the replacement of the clutch.kattiebar Thanks this. -
I guess I wasn't clear- I'll be sitting ideal, not in gear, my feet off the pedals, the loader operator will dump one bucket in my wagon then gets the second one. I'll press the clutch fully to engage the brake and pull the shifter in granny low- I let up just a little as you describe to get off the clutch brake. Before he can dump that second bucket and without moving my foot at all it will start to grab and quickly get stronger until I let off the brake completely and start to move.
The rest of the day I can repeat this process and nothing like this happens- I think it's just possessed!
Thank you for your reply and your help hun
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OK, now I see the whole picture. The clutch center plate is hanging up and trapping the forward clutch disc which in turn rapidly heats the disc and causes the truck to pull harder and harder from expansion of the disc from the heat. The center plate needs to float freely for proper clutch release.
You will need a new clutch soon.kattiebar Thanks this. -
While it does seem your clutch is probably on the way out--the clutch brake (as in many cases)does seem to be the issue at hand--bendix does make a swivel type clutch brake replacement that can be easily installed--w/out tearing everything out--it isn't a long term solution but can/will buy you a good deal of time b4 you have to replace that clutch. Good Luck
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####! I was hoping you weren't going to say that! Oh well, it's only money, right?!
Thank you both very much!!!
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Your welcome--wish I had better news--trouble with clutches is there really isn't anyway to be sure what is going on--without opening it up and really checking--and that is the double edge sword! The biggest cost9and most of it)in clutch replacement is the LABOR--most clutch packs arent teriibly expensive(relatively)but and each truck mfg is different--there is quite a bit of time involved getting to it--and at that point it makes no sense not to just replace it--that is why the riviting clutch brake replacement is so nice--it can be installed in a short amount of time!
And remember this type of job can vary by as much as $2K depending on who does it--I have heard of folks payin upwards of $5k for it--and frankly can be done for well under $2K--so if you do not have a shop you use regulalry that take care of your equip--that u trust--SHOP AROUND!
Good Luck -
holy crapper they charge me $450 to drop and reinstallk trans in my area plus the cost of the new clutch.
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Moving this to the Garage section.
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While the gearbox is out it is a pretty good idea to do the rear main seal as well, costs a lot less do to it while it is all apart
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