I have learned a lot over the years by reading these forums , videos etc... I have been doing this for about 6 months now with no problems, no lost, damaged loads. It's an older trailer ( 45 by 96 Great Dane) I have been dot'ed and never any issues. I'm not saying that I'm doing it all right but I take my time, watch my load and take it easy down the road. I just noticed others doing it different and just checking on the more experienced guys and what y'all do.
New flatbedder and I have strap secrument questions.
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by sbatson, Nov 11, 2012.
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This varies by each manufacturer and trailer or bed type. I use the stake pockets. I drop the chain through the pocket and loop it up so when the chain is slack the hook does not let go.
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I was told you can't hook the rub rail only if there is a sticker saying you can't.
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alot of manacs have special hooks made to hook to the pipe spools which are square, never knew this until i started pulling a manac and I LOVE these hooks.
I still think reitnour makes a better trailer.
I roll my straps onto my winches because we drop n hook and thats how everyone here pretty much does it.Mommas_money_maker Thanks this. -
I have been with this guy for over year and started out doing phenumatic trailer and I didn't know a thing except what I had seen done, never had a problem. I was also put on a rgn with no hands on know how but never had a issue with it either. I'm pretty confident if I can haul os/ow loads with no prior experience I think I can go flatbed. I feel I'm a good driver and I do what it takes to make sure job is done right. If that means I have to sit and watch videos or make phone calls for 2 hours to help make sure I have a better understanding of the secrument of the load that's what I do.
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our new revolution trailers have a sticker on the from of them that says
rub rail wll 5400 lbs
stake pockets wll 5400 lbs
pipe spool wll 5400 lbs
recesses chain hooks wll 5400 lbs
winch track wll 5400 lbs -
There is a WLLon the rub rail it is about 5300 pounds. The rail IS designed to be used to hook chains and or straps too. Personally I run the hook behind the rail over the outside back down the inside securing it on the bottom side of the rail with the strap over the hook. The strap will be coming up the inside of the rail pulling on the hook and rail.
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I don't like how the metal hook wears out the strap when its wrapped around the rub rail but I wouldn't say its incorrect. I like folding the strap as it cinches up faster than a winch full of strap.
When you throw the strap hook it quick while the other end it's still in the air, before it drapes over the load, and it should stay hooked. I've used some straps that had a metal tab in the hook but I'm not sure who made them. -
Thats how I do it as well. Never have to worry about a hook slipping when I tighten. I also fold my straps rather than roll. IME it takes less effort to get the strap tight this way, as there are less inner layers to take the slack out of. Also if the load is low enough, I'll put the folded part between the strap and load as 'extra' edge protection. -
Per 393.108 of the FMCSA cargo securement regulations:
FMCSA's cargo securement rules do
not require rating and
marking of anchor points. While the agency encourages
manufacturers to rate and mark anchor points, the new
rules do not include a requirement for ratings and
markings.
Source: http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/documents/cargo/cs-policy.pdf
Page 5, about halfway down on the right-hand column, under the heading "Unrated and Unmarked Anchor Points"
So, in short, yes, you are legal to utilize the rub-rail, even if it is unmarked. The only situation in which I would not use the rub-rail is if it explicitly states not to use it as an anchor point.
As far as how I run the hook, I pull it down on the inside of the rub-rail, the up and over the outside, and back down inside, hooking the hook to the bottom of the rub-rail so that it pulls the inner-face of the hook against the rub-rail, providing maximum surface area with the rub-rail itself. If the hook is deeper than the rub-rail, hooking it to the top and tightening the strap can cause the curve in the hook to be pushed off from the rub-rail, meaning less contact area. I also utilize the various bolsters at which the rub-rail is connected to the body of the trailer. If you are pulling in any direction besides vertically over the load, the bolsters will allow you to lock the strap in by hooking it in front of or behind the bolster in relation to the direction you are pulling on the strap.
As far as the winch. I pull it through and pull as much slack out as I can before tightening. I then fold the strap over, typically about 1-and-half-foot sections, and then underneath the strap between the trailer and the outer section of the strap. Then, as the strap is tightened the extra length of strap is held in place.
If you're using straps with ratchets, when you have the strap as tight as you want, pull the extra length out, and start folding it over itself, typically 1.5-2ft. sections. By the time you reach the ratched you'll have a large loop. Pull the loop through the ratchet handle about halfway, then you will take the end of the loop and pull it back through itself on the opposite side you have pulled the loop halfway through. Pull it as tight as possible and close the ratchet handle on the knot you've created.
I hope that makes sense, it's difficult to explain all of this without photos or diagrams.
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