YOUR favorite OIL????

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by wwp2343, Oct 29, 2012.

  1. dpfndefbad

    dpfndefbad Bobtail Member

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    I use chevron delo 15w40. Have a friend who is a certified cummins tech that works for a large regional hauler as maintenance supervisor. They always used delo until shell rep gave them a good deal on 5k gal of rotella. Out of 60 trucks had 6 with cam problems in 1 year of rotella after 2 yrs of no problems. Switched back to delo and 1 cam in one year. Assured me this was the only change in pm and attributes rotella to problems. Said oil samples were almost identical except rotella had 20 % increase in iron over delo. Maybe bad qc at rotella or just an unlucky year but i won't use rotella.
     
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  3. 379wheathauler

    379wheathauler Bobtail Member

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    Anybody esle using 0w40 john deere oil,works really good year round.
     
  4. Johny41

    Johny41 Road Train Member

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    This must be thin like water, in Europe are using 0W40 in OTR trucks and luxury cars.I'm using Mobil1 and Rotela 5W40 both synthetic.I'm getting better fuel economy and the engine stays cooler. I'm looking for the new Castrol elixion synthetic, i've seen the add in truck papper, they guarantee up to 4% better MPG.
     
  5. 379wheathauler

    379wheathauler Bobtail Member

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    Not much difference between 0w40 john deere synthetic and any other 5w40 synthetic. you can pour it easily at -25 f
     
  6. Cowpie1

    Cowpie1 Road Train Member

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    Keep in mind here, the number in front of the "w" is a winter flow rating, not the thickness of the oil. 0w40, 5w40, 15w40 are all 40 weight oils, just that they have different winter flow characteristics. The oils with the better winter flow rates have a more uniform molecular structure as they have gone thru more intensive refining to eliminate irregular particles from them. Usually, it also means that the oil will have a lower Noack volatility rating (burn off less) and have a better resistance to oil "shearing". It will tend to hold up better for longer periods. But you will usually pay more for it. But the synthetics can do a better job, especially in extreme temperatures. The synthetics will flow better on a very cold morning and get oil to where it is needed faster. And in extreme high temperatures (especially with todays emission device, low rpm engines), the synthetics will hold up better and maintain proper viscosity longer. Guess it is just what decides to use and if they feel the cost is worth it. I use a synthetic, but I also find the lowest price I can. I am presently using a Delo 400 LE 5w40 synthetic that I can get locally for under $20 a gallon. If someone can find a better price on a synthetic, go for it.

    To add insult to injury here. I just read a report that biodiesel blends are causing some increases in oil oxidation and, in some cases, fuel dilution. The oil companies are now recommending going to the higher quality oils to counter this. Still no definitive testing that is conclusive, but one might consider going to synthetics if they are in areas where pumps have biodiesel as the only fuel and they are using bio more often. And most of all, it makes a strong case for having regular oil samples done to see what in going on inside that engine. Now that is cheap insurance. If you run regular samples and see a trend going up on oxidation or fuel dilution, then one might benefit by going to a synthetic.

    As Rosanne Rosana Danna always said on Saturday Night Live in the 70's.. "if it's not one thing, it's another."
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2012
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  7. 3rd Gen Driver

    3rd Gen Driver Light Load Member

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    Amsoil with a by-pass filter. Change oil once a year. Motor runs smoother than conventional, IMO. Another guy in my company, also with a by-pass filter, uses Royal Purple and ran 300k miles with out oil change. Just regular oil samples to check levels.
     
  8. heavyhaulerss

    heavyhaulerss Road Train Member

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    I always used 15w40. was thinking about going to a better flow oil for the winter months, but was afraid about oil pressure when the temps went up or when engine was at normal temp, would it be too thin? never knew about the numbers on oil & what they mean. what would be a good, safe oil for the winter? 5 w 40 ? does delvac make a 5 w 40? would a 5 w 40 be better than full synthetic or synthetic blend i.y.o.
     
  9. heavyhaulerss

    heavyhaulerss Road Train Member

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    I guess what I thought was if a 5 w has better flow than a 15 w when cold, then a 5 w would have to be thinner when engine is at operating temp lowering oil pressure. one time I used a low W rating synthetic blend, cause it was on sale & my oil pressure when driving or idle was lower. it scared me, although everything seemed o.k. I'm just the type, that know where all my gauges read. if any dash gauge shows the slightest difference from what it usually shows, alarm bells go off in my head.
     
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  10. black_dog106

    black_dog106 Road Train Member

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    HH:
    I run 15W-40 in summer and 5w-40 Schaeffer full synthetic in winter. Dont have any proof that this is the right thing to do, but i have never had a problem. And it makes me feel alot better on the cold days.
    I dont do extended drains. I go off road, haul heavy, etc. The truck doesnt have an easy life. I am probably throwing money away, but oil change intervals isnt going to change.
    I do send Blackstone labs a sample. Hoping if something starts going south in motor, analysis might pick it up? Analysis always show alot of oil life left, but as said previously, i continue throwing money away on short OCI.
    Do any of you use Blackstone and are you satisfied with them? :biggrin_25514:
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2012
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  11. Cowpie1

    Cowpie1 Road Train Member

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    A 5w40 is only "thinner" in that the impurities that are typically in a 15w40 have been removed by further refining. Both are 40 weight oils. The base oil still has the same molecular structure whether it is a 5w40 or a 15w40. This further refining, or "hydrocracking" as it is called, is what gets it moved up from a Group II base oil (typical 15w40 you see on the shelf), to a Group III synthetic. Impurities and irregular molecules are removed so that it "seems" thinner. A 5w40 synthetic will work fine in the Sahara desert at 120F as it does on the North Slope of Alaska in the winter. I have used 5w40 year round with no appreciable oil pressure loss and no negative effects in commercial trucks, agriculture equipment, and even my Jeep Liberty Diesel. And ag tractor engines take quite a beating. And an added plus to using a 5w40 full synthetic is that oil gets to the parts faster, it reduces resistance internally, and can actually increase fuel efficiency.

    Synthetic "blends" are really only marketing hype. They usually only have a small percentage of synthetic in them. It is a way for the marketing types to inflate the price on a jug of oil. Stick with regular oil or jump on up to full synthetic. The only "blend" that I have extensive experience with that did a real good job was Mystik JT-8 15w40 blend. If one wants to go that route, I recommend it. It can usually be had at great prices at farm and home type stores. Last time I got some for one application was last July. Price was $58 for a 5 gallon pail.

    Once we get into synthetic territory, then the fights usually begin about what constitutes a "true" synthetic. All synthetics are made from carbon base stocks. Group III are made from highly refined mineral oil while a Group IV is made from Natural Gas. In the lab, you can find minute differences between them, but in the real world, you would be hard pressed to tell the difference in performance. For instance, I use Delo 5w40 full synthetic (Group III). Amsoil's 5w40 is a Group IV. Yet if you look at the spec sheets on them, they have darn close to the same volatility rate (burn off), cold flow points, and overall performance characteristics. Schaeffer is very similar as is Delvac 1 and others. And truth be told, even the so called Group IV "true" synthetics have a mix of Group III in them. That is because the additive package does not stay in suspension well in only Group IV. Some Group III is added to keep that add pack in suspension. Schaeffer, which is a very good oil, is the only one that will acknowledge this and they state in their spec sheets that their 9000 5w40 full synthetic is 75% group IV and 25% group III. The other name brands want to play marketing games and play the "true" synthetic mind games on those that have not researched this out. That doesn't mean to shoot down any brand, just their marketing. All of the synthetics on the market are good oils.

    Oil change intervals are strictly based on one's "comfort" zone. Some like trying to take oil changes to record lengths of time while others do not sleep well doing that. Do whatever you feel comfortable with. Get a brand name you like at the best value you can. Price is not necessarily reflective of quality. No use paying more than you have to. I guess that one of the reasons I am using Delo 5w40 full synthetic.... I can get it for just under $20 a gallon. And I don't do wildly fantastic drain intervals. My comfort level stops at about 30,000 miles.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2012
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