Spec'ing a Truck for the Lighter Side of Heavy Haul

Discussion in 'Heavy Haul Trucking Forum' started by terrylamar, Jan 24, 2013.

  1. terrylamar

    terrylamar Road Train Member

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    Austin, TX
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    My questions are similar to another thread on this forum, I have a former ATS Company truck, a Peterbilt 387, that was used in their Lease Program. I bought it. It was spec'd as a van truck, I think, then transferred over to Specialized. I am thinking of making a few changes to better suit pulling light heavy haul, 120,000 lbs. or less. I'm looking for a three axle step or a stretchable RGN with a third flip axle. I already have a Bully Dog downloader. I have an estimate 500 plus horse power and better than 2,000 fp torque. I have a 22918B transmission and a Lipe clutch. I have a Peterbilt Low Air Leaf rear suspension. I am thinking of upgrading my rear ends to D46-170 or D40-170. Should I upgrade my suspension? Maybe an Air-Trac? How much weight will a super single tire be rated for? Most of my loads will be light, so I still want to get good fuel mileage. Should I double frame my truck, put in an insert or don't worry about it? If you add inserts or double frame, doesn't that add width to your frame? Does that cause a problem bolting everything back together? Cost isn't a primary concern. I realize buying a tractor with these options may be better, but I'm determined to keep this truck.
     
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  3. leftlanetruckin

    leftlanetruckin Road Train Member

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    Mo Via Blackpool,Lancs.
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    Wow, lots of questions....
    Dump the super single tires. Not rated for enough weight IMHO, and will put a world of hurt on you if you have a bad tire etc. Look at the sidewall of the tires though, to see what they are rated for. In some states you can go over 40k lbs, and the easiest way for a DOT cop to ticket you is if your tires arent rated for it!
    Looks like the engine, clutch and tranny are up to that weight, no problem.
    What rears does it have now? Suspension? If it has 40k lb rears in it now, and the gearing is not too tall, then keep it as is until something starts getting noisy etc.
    Forget about the double frame, just keep the front at @12k lbs, and the rears around 40k lbs, and it will be fine. A double framed truck is doubled inside the frame rails, so it does not make it wider etc.
    Make sure to get some good ramps on there, as the ones I have seen on ATS trucks are all but useless.

    Martin
     
  4. terrylamar

    terrylamar Road Train Member

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    Oct 8, 2006
    Austin, TX
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    For some reason I can't make paragraphs, that I why everything is jumbled together. I have 3,55's. I have a lighter walled axle housing, I don't remember which model it is. I checked on it one time. They are 40K. My 3,55's work well with a Cat. I get a tremendous surge of power just over 1000 rmps. I usually drive at 57 mph and am at 1125 at that speed. On those rare instances where I want to go fast I have plenty of room to do it. I still don't get the double frame. If you add the double frame, won't it widen the spacing of the outer rail? Then anything attached to the outer rails that spans the width of the two rails would be off by the two rails you added. That is if anything spans the width of the rails and is attached to both sides. The Cab attachment come to mind, though I haven't paid attention to where they are attached.
     
  5. Mack427

    Mack427 Medium Load Member

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    double frame is a 1/4" c channel frame inserted inside you rail widen the rail no thicken it yes most shops only double frame from the back of the cab to the rear a factory is at least to the front axle pretty low rpms to be pulling a load its near impossible to get great milage even a piece of equipment that weights 30k on a lowboy is going to pull alot harder than 30k in a van or covered wagon
     
  6. jorlee

    jorlee Light Load Member

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    You've got a better transmission and more power than my company truck I've got. I've only got a 475 ISX with a 16913 transmission and 3.55 gears on low pro 24.5's. The truck I've got was stretched, lined and an axle put under it. Used it like that with a 4 axle lowboy for a few years. Now have a jeep to go with it. Grossing 160,000 lbs. Only compaints are low power, and should have a 18sp for the lower gear starting out.
     
  7. Superhauler

    Superhauler TEACHER OF MEN

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    keep stroking.
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    leave it alone you have more than enough truck for 120000lbs. double frame does not make a truck wider every truck has enginering in it for a variety of setups. i will bet your cross members have slots in some of the bolt holes to (shrink) the crossmembers for an insert to be slid inside of the frame you have. but like one poster said, you really dont need it. dump the super singles.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2013
  8. sbaumann14

    sbaumann14 Road Train Member

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    I'd like to buy a period for $200 Alex
     
  9. rank

    rank Road Train Member

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    I may be showing my age but that wouldn't that be either Pat Say-jack or Chuck Woollery?
     
    BJnobear and cetanediesel Thank this.
  10. 8x8

    8x8 Light Load Member

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    I have ran oilfield heavy haul for last 5 yrs running many dif" spec'd trucks, I wouldn't go lower (numerically) than 3.91, I currently run co truck ISX 550 18 speed, remember 18 are double overdrive that really hurts trying to maintain speed up hills which where your going burn the most fuel, same spec truck but with 4.30's overall runs much better, I know all the highway haulers will disagree, but they don't weigh 67k empty, overdrives reduce torque to ground, great for high speed doesn't help HH so I would look at the eaton fuller gear ratio calculator work from 16th 1:1 to determine which ratio with tire OD will work best
     
  11. sdaniel

    sdaniel Road Train Member

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    Follow you fully, but the OD is the tires overall diameter . Some may have read over drive instead.
     
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