Clutch slipping question

I don't doubt someone here can help, but a call to Eaton's support line could be your best bet.
If you're experiencing slippage, I wonder if maybe a plate is in backwards, but hopefully I'm wrong.
I did a Mack clutch once and a label reading "Flywheel Side" was on the wrong side of the one of the plates.

Me and another guy pulled the tranny again, flipped the plate, and had it back together in 45 minutes.
'Course all the tools and tranny jack were all still in place for the road test,
Otherwise it would have taken all day, along with every cuss word known to man.

 

Slipping is normal for a new clutch. It will stop after it gets good and hot. Eaton's are bad for this. A lipe will do it too. It seems as though flywheels turned with a rock are worse to slip than done with a lathe in my experience.

 

If you keep the clutch freeplay adjusted, the linkage shouldn't need adjusted through the life of the clutch. If you let it run too long with no freeplay, it'll wear the fingers and require the linkage adjustment to get correct freeplay. The linkage may also need adjusted with a new clutch.

 

Yah, you're probably going to be fine. I think there was some minor contamination on either the flywheel, and or discs that will prevent a proper mate until it gets burnt off. Some clutches just need a little burn in to clean up those surfaces. International had a run of bad clutch installs from the plant around 2001 or so. We changed out dozens of clutches due to slipping for our customers and new trucks in transit. It got to the point where Eaton was involved. They claimed it was an install problem, not a part problem. None of the clutches sent back were faulty, so they say. We were told to 'burn them in". Basically go on a road test and get the clutch to slip. Keep it slipping for about 15 seconds. This does two things. It burns off all contamination so both the discs and flywheel surfaces are completely cleaned. It also puts the discs through a heat cycle which actually extends their life. This did indeed work. I went to a Eaton drive line training course years later. Part of the course dealt with diagnostics with clutches and we were told this again about the burn in. Not every clutch needs this, in fact rarely they do, but it does work.