Buying a new truck this week, should i buy new or used?

I bought the 3yr extended warranty that covers everything. It costs about $10,000 but it covers pretty much everything. It is only three years as that is how long they extended it for heavy duty work, which they consider anything to be with Super B weights. I want to say it is 300,000 miles but would have to look at the paperwork. Which I should because I will run out of miles before time. Over 100,000 in the first 10-11 months

It is the same price as the Kenworth warranty that I know a guy just purchased for his two trucks.

 

Basic,i understand your feelings but you cannot let it get to you.

The new offers by Kenworth make it clear that you were smart in not rushing in your decision.

 

Something wrong there. 9000 hours is half what should be on a 930,000 k truck. Unless it averaged 103 kph every hour it ran!

5nz isn't a bad engine though. If your unlucky with the Accert they are the easiest and cheapest to reflash the ECM and remove the emission from. Cat parts are pricey but good mechanics abound because so many hd mechanics start in cat machinery and apprentice programs.

 

However the lighter truck may be able to carry the full load that the company wants hauled without going overweight, while the heavier one may not. The company often takes a fairly optimistic viewpoint about the average empty weight of the fleet leaving the guys who aren't at the lighter end of the range in a difficult spot.

 

What you want is FRONT and REAR Lockers PLUS the DIFF LOCK (Power Divider)

 

The I-shift/M-drive is considered to be the best automated transmission out there but I wouldn't use them for your application. I would stick with the 18 so you can pick your gears if you are bogged down. The 12 in the M-drive is just too few.

Yes the Mack rear ends look different, the big advantage they have is they are a bowl so it is much harder for oil to leak out of them. The link has a diagram from an old promo magazine. But it shows the design differences.

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/30903-mack-toploaders/?p=180021

 

We run t800s with eaton 18 speed autos. When in slippery #### or anywhere else I want to be sure it won't shift at a bad time I just move the selector to manual. In this setting it will not shift unless you tell it to or the rpm is going to put the engine in danger.

Any time you are driving in auto mode and want to bump it up or down a gear or several you can just tap the button. It quickly becomes very intuitive to drive. The 2013 models didn't have the shift points programmed well IMO and I felt I was being deprived of some of the usefull rpm range of the engine, both for power and jaking. The 2014s seem far superior in this regard and I prefer driving them.