I have 7 2012 Volvo trucks in my fleet and each one of those trucks keeping burning out the headlights. The trucks use the H5006 & H5001 sealed beam headlights but they do not last longer than a month or two. Each time we change a headlight, we put die-electric grease on the prongs but it does not change any thing. Any suggestions? Would going to a LED headlight be better, if so where would I buy them at?
2012 Volvo Headlights keep burning out
Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by Oilfieldfireman, Aug 20, 2013.
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Two things will cause a headlight to burn out or go out prematurely. Excess voltage (bad regulator) or excess vibration (headlight loose in mount, or mount loose).
Test your alternator/regulator output voltage with a voltmeter at the battery (the one in the dash can be very inaccurate). If you are running 15v or higher, that will burn them out prematurely. Normal charging (running) voltage should be about 13.5 to 14.5 (or close to those numbers). You can also check voltage on the headlight socket contacts (but that should be the same as your battery voltage (engine running).Oilfieldfireman Thanks this. -
or are you touching the bulb with your hands the oils from fingers will shorten there life.case they burn so hot ?
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There is no bulb to touch as it is a sealed beam housing. As for the voltage, the voltage is where it should be, 13.9-14.2. Volvo has stated that the design was bad from the start. I am leaning towards the vibration causing them to burn out. I didn't know if I change to an LED if it would help...
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An LED headlight, tho muuuch more expensive, has no filament to burn out (which are in regular or halogen sealed beams). That should solve it, as they're nearly vibration proof and handle voltage fluctuations in a more "wider" range.
**BTW, I overlooked an important step... Also check voltage while the engine is running at higher (1500) rpm, and not just at idle. A bad regulator (typically built into the alternator) can show normal voltage at idle, but increase significantly (over safe limits) as engine/alternator speed increases.
An unregulated (ie, bad) alternator produces upwards of 20 volts. The regulator's job is to limit alternator output voltage to the proper/safe range (approx 13.5v - 14.5v). -
Take a look in the headlight housing and see if you have some water in the bottom. If you do that is the problem. If water splashes onto the hot bulb it immediately blows. If this is the case just drill a small 1/8" drain hole in the lowest part of the plastic bulb housing. This happened on a car I owned and drove me crazy until I figured it out.
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MH60L,
Twice the OP stated these were sealed beams, not 2-piece housing/bulb module type units. -
I drive a 2010 not sealed beam but bulb unit.had this problem replacing bulbs.Ended up being the harnesses.they Chafee and cause shorts.These harnesses plug up to bulb and the other end plugs to main harness.Hate to see you wast big money on led's when the route of the problem is not fixed.hope this helps.
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