E=mc2 is hard to beat, in fact it cannot! Its obvious the faster you go the more fuel is required... but there is other laws of physics that do help low MPG when you use them.
Kinetic energy: experienced drivers had full 1mpg gain over 2-9yrs exp . (I don't believe that number to be accurate, however its clear result of un-powerd gain)
- Use the sweet spot to power your rig (1,200-1,600 rpm) This is the general location in rpm range where you find HP, and Torque curve meet.
- Rolling resistance
[*=2]Aerodynamics: (no one paid attention till after fuel prices skyrocketed) FYI: the most fuel efficent truck was late 1980's cab over KW until early 90's. The fairing between cab and trailer made that brick into IDK a fuel efficient brick LOL? Now all trucks have them, and made some upgrades to trailer dynamics w/ skirt, tail, under flow. <--- don't laugh I've seen numbers 1.5 mpg in high wind w/ skirt. (Not seen tail, or under carriage result)
[*=2]Alignment: If any scrub of tires you will see it in wear pattern. A slight misalignment can cost owner/op 6 month worth of useful tire life on drives. And at a $0.001+ /mile loss in MPG. Nearly the same for trailer tires, however the MPG loss is multiplied by 1% (don't ask me why, I guess it trailer trying to offset drives?) Multiply that x8 for spread axle trailers. (wish I had chart for degree of alignment out of place vs wear and MPG) but is exponential as it increases
[*=2]fluids/internal friction: The claims are amazing... get this super duper oil and get %5 better MPG... I don't buy their claims, but you should be replacing/checking/and maintaining fluid levels at all times w/ quality products.
- Time traffic lights... If you see red light ahead, drop out of gear early, and try to arrive at last car under full throttle as they accelerate under green.
- Fixed stop signs, free wheel into them as far away as possible.. let your load do the work, aka momentum.
- Traffic backups forget about keeping your space, and braking. Keep gear that allows you to idle through, your dealing w/ gal per hour vs miles.
- Avoid anything that slows or stops you, the biggest waste of fuel is getting your rig moving.
- Always use cruise control @ hwy speed.
I'm sure I've missed plenty, so pls add.
enjoy your ride everyone!
MPG: Owner ops/ fuel bonus
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by TheDude1969, Aug 24, 2013.
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The higher your mpg, the less fuel you need to buy.
The less fuel you need to buy, the lower your fuel discount.
The lower your fuel discount, the more you spend on fuel.
therefore higher mpg only means higher fuel costs
long live the 80mph hood!snowblind and TheDude1969 Thank this. -
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As for 80 MPH hood....your tires are only rated for 75 unless you have racing tires.TheDude1969 Thanks this. -
In response to OP...
Also prepass helps, every time i stop it cost me 4 bucks to get back up to speed in fuel.Charli Girl and TheDude1969 Thank this. -
Maybe I shoulda got a bachelors degree so I can understand things like this.TheDude1969 Thanks this. -
How about the less fuel you burn the less soot in your oil which means the less wear on your internals which means longer engine life. What does the average in-frame cost these days. A no brainer amigo.
TheDude1969 Thanks this. -
Lets say you run 120,000 miles per year and get 6.5 MPG. If your average fuel cost per gallon is 3.85, you'll burn 18,461 gallons of fuel at a total cost of 71,076. Here are my numbers, I get 7.6 MPG average so with 120,000 miles I'll burn 15,789 gallons at a total cost of 60,789. The difference is 10,287 dollars in my pocket. Throw in comparative shopping for best fuel price, just plain gravy. Pass the biscuits please.
TheDude1969, Lady K and rsnyder952 Thank this. -
A small air leak can cost you .3 gallons per hour, under inflated tires .2 mpg, those silly hood mirrors .26 mpg, extra fuel ie, full tanks rather than 1/2 tanks extra 950 lbs up to 1.5 mpg. running extra electrical .4 gph, for everything else there is mastercard.
DocRox and TheDude1969 Thank this. -
TheDude1969 and Charli Girl Thank this.
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