Value of my Dual Axle Car Hauler

In Oklahoma, we don't have strict laws like North Carolina, however, with all the other states, if there is no title originally, then you don't need one, just a bill of sale if you need a license plate. Here in Oklahoma, anything under 20ft 11.99", does not need a title, license plate, trailer lights, nor do you need a VIN Number. We don't even have automobile Inspections (Got rid of the entire inspection process over a decade ago, so no inspection stickers or having to pay for inspection stickers on vehicles, boats, trailers, bikes, etc...)

I did just buy a $100+ high Intensity LED Trailer Lighting System to make it legal for all states and so I don't get rear-ended with nothing on the trailer. I also purchased 4 reflective stickers and placed them on the rear and on the side rear corner. I haven't installed the lights yet.

It's not a man made trailer. The welds, build quality, axles, etc... are too good to be man made and we are known for building things like trailers very well and are known for knowing how to weld. I mean, just look at the pictures. Does that look like a handmade trailer? There are too many parts or features where the trailer could have used a different and much easier way of making the feature than how a trailer making company would make it. For example. The slide in ramps and how they were implemented into the trailer. The kind of hardware and wide variety of materials used (instead of using the same materials for the same thing like the thickness of the steel for one thing is not used for 5 other things and other materials. It has two rear rectangular mounting plates that are perfectly placed for mounting trailer lights. So mounting the rear tail lights a breeze, although I'm sure this will take me several hours to do the entire lighting and wiring correctly.

So the $1500 range sounds right as I have talked to people and the guy who wanted to buy my trailer, but hasn't been able to get his money from his insurance company yet from having his last trailer stolen; I'm talking about the owner of the auto shop that did swapped out my rear end for $700 in labor, which I don't think was bad at all, but I got shafted on the towing for $140 to get towed for .62 miles, but he has no say so in the charge, as he outsources now until he gets a trailer, and showed me the text message on how much they charged him for towing it, which he thought was outrageous also and it was indeed $138. so he made no money on the towing. Anyway, he told me that it was built VERY well so he figured it was made by either company A or company b; I forgot what companies he rattled off to me. He said he would send the info to a few guys and a guy he knows that deals with selling and buying trailers. I told him I was asking $1400 and he admitted that he really wished he had the money, because he thought that was a hell of a price and if it was still available, he would like to buy it. I told him I had flexibility on the price. He asked why; that it was a great price considering the build quality, the strength of it to tow so much from just looking at the thickness of the steel, welds, axles hitch and so on and the condition of the trailer as it looked new.

As for trailer brakes, That has been something on my To-Do List as if anyone is going to tow anything more than their own vehicle weight, mine for example:

(THIS IS WHERE I GET OFF TOPIC HERE SO IF YOU DONT CARE ABOUT THE 3 DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE TITAN AND ARMADA AND MY CAR AUDIO SOUND SYSTEM SETUP IS, THEN SKIP THIS BIG PARAGRAPH) My Nissan Armada weighing in at 5600lbs, but having a towing capacity of 9100lbs because it was
1. An SUV, not the Titan, so it weighed more than the Titan, having EVERYTHING the same as the Titan except the rear modified variant of the Dana 40 IRS Differential (the titan had a solid live axle),
2. It's an SUV where the bed of the truck would normally be.

3. (WAY OFF TOPIC HERE WHERE I TALK ABOUT MY AUDIO SYSTEM)
It's a 4x4, adding more weight so the 2WD models with the Towing Package can tow 9200lbs. Mine has 4WD and the Towing Package adding weight for the Transmission Cooler, Transfer Case and the Rear Auto-Air Leveling System (even though it probably only adds 20 extra pounds, it levels out the truck when the truck isn't level for an empty tank half empty,full tank, a full tank of 28 gallons, extra weight in the cargo such as my extra 200lbs, because of my 4 20lb 8" Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL modified 8" Subs (that has done 147.4dB as a daily driver audio setup, which is d@mn good for a daily driver setup, that's hard to do achieve that high of a decibel rating especially with the only approved meter; the TermLab SPL Decibel Meter, let alone with 2 12" Subs ported with a competition box tuned in the high frequency in the 50's Herz range), 4 amplifiers, 2 sets of high end and expensive lines. Sorry, got off topic.) Focal 6W2 Utopia Componwnt Speakers in the front and Focal K2P Component Speakers in the rear, heavy [150sq ft weighing 40lbs] sound dreading in all 4 doors and a ported box tuned to 31Hz (lower tuning like 31Hz has longer ports = more wood), made out of heavy 3/4" MDF wood, weighing in at 150lbs for a grand total of 200lbs (without the weight of the front heavy Dynamatt Xtreme sound deadener and door speakers and crossovers) behind the 3rd Row Seats. And/Or the tongue weight of a trailer all taken into account for the weight sagging down the rear arm of the servo controlling how much air to be pumped in to the two rear air bags along with the heavy duty coil springs. OK I think the How the Rear Auto-Leveling System works and the difference in my 4WD and Towing Package is off topic. Woops. Sorry about that.

Anyway, especially in towing more than your gross weight of your vehicle should have trailer brakes. Not sure why my tandem axle trailer didn't come with this option. So I planned on having trailer brakes added. They are considerably cheap anyway. anywhere from $80 on upwards of $300 for expensive systems. If I do this, then I will add the price to the sale price of the trailer. I don't see why I need to add trailer brakes on something I'm trying to sell, unless it's to make it legal to sell in other states that require certain things; for example - the trailer lighting system I got.

Adding trailer brakes, depending on which one I get price wise, is going to add cost effective value to the trailer, but that is one reason why I want to get the value of the trailer.

Questions I'm asking myself:
Am I going to get my money back or close to it, for the amount of the trailer brakes? Are the trailer brakes going to expand my sale to get it sold faster?

Those are the kind of questions I am asking myself which is one reason why I'm asking what is my trailer is worth.

So now I am getting closer to knowing what the true value of this trailer is so I can get it sold.

 

Maybe so. Did it have a towing capacity of 12,400lbs? Probably not. It's a very well built trailer. It's been shown to me the amount of braces, the thickness of the steel used for the entire trailer, the bracing, etc... the axles used and so on that I was told will haul what the tires' payload capacity, with the use of tandem axles; 4 tires, handles it easily. The type of coupler; the coupler installed on this trailer - is the type that is used for higher payload capacity towing; which is an A-Frame Coupler with a 2 5/16" ball hitch (not a straight Coupler which is rated for a lower towing capacity, nor a 2" A-Frame Coupler rated for 7,000lbs) which is rated at 12,500lbs.