What's your thought of this antenna design?

Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by TheDude1969, Sep 14, 2013.

  1. TheDude1969

    TheDude1969 Heavy Load Member

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    Problem:
    We run a fleet of 2012 Volvos, and I'm stuck in one w/ a horrible static issue...Problem is it doesn't happen until I reach 30mph, I can rev engine sitting still and get very little. Crazy part is, its worse on concrete roadway than asphalt. The only time radio is static free is when I'm braking. :banghead:

    Background:
    I've added my own antenna mounts/coax, run ground straps... nothing is working <---does this on AM stereo too

    Idea:
    Move the antenna to rear of sleeper, away from the cab, ECM, injector noise.

    Solution:
    A 102" whip w/ 6" spring (I'll add a tenis ball and few zip ties to keep it from hurting the truck) , and an inverted "V" TV antenna as ground plane? Sorry can't find picture of acutual TV antenna but looks like a V w/ 2 mini fiberglass whips. <--I'd replace using 2'-3' 1/4 wave whips facing front to back like picture shows below. My thinking was this would add a small db gain front and rear doing this way rather than just center dipole?

    Your thoughts?

    BTW: Handlebar, TurboT, and everyone else TYSVM for all the help I've read here!
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. handlebar

    handlebar Heavy Load Member

    Hiya, Dude.
    I recall seeing a fix somewhere in the forum, although possibly not in the CB section, about a mechanic who solved a similar (or identical?) problem by infiltrating some sort of graphite or teensy metal (molybdenum?) into the front wheel bearing grease. I believe the bearings' original grease provides for enough insulation that the bearings are rendered more-or-less nonconductive. Either that kept the static created in the tires as they turned on the highway from returning to the vehicle's "common ground", or whether it was to drain static from the rest of the vehicle through the tires (which seems less likely from my old chem major studies), I cannot recall.

    As I read the symptoms in your problem, it was the mention of brake application curing the static that provided what, if I had a better sense of moving parts in the first place, would have passed for what an otherwise more astute person could call an "Ah-hah Moment".

    I tried doing a search using a couple of specific terms and came up with either zero hits or over 10,000 in the whole TRS forum array. It may be the neat drugs from the ER following the MVA that have taken that part of my brain offline for the moment. Mayhap the problem as stated will engage someone else's better-functioning powers of recall and/or logic.

    Either that, or something else. <-------- Handlebar's Universal Disclaimer™ (®Handlebar Enterprises Int'l, 1981)


    73
     
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  4. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    There was a problem for many installations of cop cars and other vehicles with radio equipment in them at one time, one reason for the two strips of rubber on the bumper on many of the 60's and 70's cars. It may be caused by an isolation of the wheels from the rest of the car, never thought of the grease thing but I am thinking this is the same thing, a build up of static electricity and no where to discharge it, so if you have a couple old rubber bundgy cords, see if you can attach them to frame (meaning to something that conducts, like the fuel tanks or air tanks) and have them drag on the ground to see if that solves the problem.
     
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  5. Mr. PlumCrazy

    Mr. PlumCrazy Road Train Member

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    Try a bird pearch forget about the wheel bearing greese above unless you really want bad trouble
     
  6. TheDude1969

    TheDude1969 Heavy Load Member

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    Handlebar, Ridgeline your right! It is static build up, and tested w/ bundgy... I could hear it through radio as I got it moving bouncing off pavement, and start flapping in wind, occasionally hiting pavement. <--- Ridgeline, hope you didn't hear me say under my breath u'r NUTS!
    :biggrin_2559:
    I don't know how that works, #### I thought all the cars from 70's finally found out it didn't work and why they stopped using them. How the heck do you discharge something w/ rubber? I figured I'd need to drag a chain behind if static was problem, and was about to try that after. I can only guess its sumtin like rubbing balloon on your hair and sticking it to ceiling while kids cry. <---see where my mind goes, that is perfect example of how much we need you guys here helping!
    :biggrin_25514:
    I'll be looking into more permanent solution, and post back when I find one.

    BTW, Using Handlebars idea of dipole antenna http://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr...diy-antenna-solution-for-fiberglass-cabs.html . What are your thoughts on my idea above... better than stock, not worth money, remove the inverted V?

    Thank you all!
     
  7. TheDude1969

    TheDude1969 Heavy Load Member

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    Handlebar, I had concerns about your drug induced post:thumbup:, and in hopes of not adding foreign metal, I changed out the front hub oil... thinking different brand may be more conductive. And it helped, dropped static from 6S to 3-4S. Also confirms your thoughts.
    I found the post you referred too ---> http://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr...dio-forum/155193-question-about-rf-noise.html
    After reading, I'm feeling much better about trying it, and confident it'll work.

    Hope your doing well!
     
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  8. Outlaw CB

    Outlaw CB Light Load Member

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    Very old problem. In the 50's whitewall tire, AM car radio days there was a spiral beryllium-copper spring in the front wheel bearing grease caps that at a point contacted the axle shaft. Low frequency AM broadcast band radios were torn up terribly with the noise. Problem was so bad engineers standardized the spiral spring and virtually every make/model from the 50's to the 70's used the idea. The idea was keeping the rims electrically contacting the axle, on to the chassis ground. Not as bad later on as tire composition changed and long chain carbon linked polymers came into use that acted as a neutralizer to triboelectric charging. A cheap cure today is a spray bottle full of 50/50 water and Downy fabric softener. Spray the tire sidewalls once every couple weeks or more if it's rainy. Unless you don't mind repair costs I would not be putting anything in the wheel bearing grease. Stuff works great on the seat in winter dry weather where certain pants materials give you a zap getting out of the seat. Just do not get back in the seat until it's dry or you will slide back out of the truck the stuff is so slippery. Painful in a Cab-over. If the grease change only got your noise down to S3 try the fabric softener idea on top of what you did. Could well drop it all the way to nothing. Cheaper than changing tire brands for one not as noisy.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
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  9. TheDude1969

    TheDude1969 Heavy Load Member

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    Downy? Mr. Outlaw thank you for your post but everyone knows real truckers use
    [​IMG]
    :biggrin_2559:(IDK? sumhow that was funny in my head)

    I'm on loong weekend, can't wait to try. Will post back how this works Wed.
     
  10. TheDude1969

    TheDude1969 Heavy Load Member

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    I tried fabric softener, and anti-static spray... no luck. (JMO may work on static issues that go away in rain?)

    Unsure how much this would take, I purchased a 32g bottle (largest on shelf) of graphite from Ace ---> http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1295694
    My thinking is one hub should work, so I put 4g in left steer, I could almost hear it turning. Not much difference in Static after it got mixed in. Then added another 4g to left steer, and could almost watch S meter drop as it blended into the lube. I was @ 1S by 150-200 miles. Next day 5S, and dropped to 2-3S over time. I added 8g to right steer and now down to 0-1S.

    Thanks a bunch!!!
     
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  11. mike5511

    mike5511 Road Train Member

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    Good thread! I slip seat and could potentially drive any one of 200 trucks.......how much graphite do I need to buy???????:biggrin_2559:
     
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