I have 2006 reman motor and it spun number 4 and about to spin 2 bearing. It's in detroit diesel in Richmond va. They want to pull the motor and replace it. I had a problem with the motor sucking the antifreeze out of the surge tank. I had antifreeze and oil mixing in the motor. I was told by my mechanic that it was probably a blown head gasket. I allowed him to pull it down and he said head gasket wasn't blown but it looked like it was leaking num 3 and 6. I said ok took head to shop to have it checked no cracks. I have him have another check liners for height etc. He had my truck for 10 days and I put new head gasket, bolts, injector cups in the head and orings on the injector . I pick up my truck and water pump was leaking so I had him replace that . I left Monday evening and oil pressure was still around 60 psi. I thought was still kinda high with new oil . I picked up my load and was on 64. I heard a rod knock and it locked up. Now today detroit diesel dealer tell me it spun 4 and almost number. They want to put a new motor in but I want to know if I can replace crank and maybe pistons . Does the block have to come out to do? Thanks nate
Detroit 60 series motor
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by nhramember, Sep 23, 2013.
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Quick question. I have a 2002 430 series 60. The coolant sensor was recently replaced. So I believe it is accurate in its readings. The coolant temp goes up to 180 to 190f at most pulling hills. But oil temp sensor when driving on flat ground loaded always reads about 200f to 230f Could this be right? Seems far off from the coolant. I run with the fan on and bring coolant to 150f and oil then generally comes down to 200f. Could the oil sensor be off or faulty? 50 degrees seems like a big difference
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Normal. Oil temps are always hotter than coolant. That is why all these engines have oil coolers. Oil temp will reach 230 after a good hard pull. The oil cooler cooling capacity is tiny compared to the rad, that is why you see such dramatic temp differences when you leave the fan on.
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To the origional poster. yes you can put a crank in it as long as all the main bearings are good. You will also need a new #4 rod. Are you still getting coolant in the oil? If so, you may want to look at getting new liners with the engine pulled out. You may have electrolisis. I would also get new piston cooling nozzles installed.
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myself if they offered me a reman i would be heck yea, with the problems you are describing, and sounds like they are a little baffled, take the knew engine and get back to work.
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locked up is not good,cracked head could have been checked by taking intake manifold off.i would get a remain,crank teardown liners and pistons,chk connecting rods.chk oil cooler.cost around 6800,new reman motor is around 22,000.Hilcrest machine shop in little rock can redo your crank......fyi i would get district service manager involed,could save you some money
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I would take a reman. Your engine will have to be pulled, main bearing line bored, hope that you find what was leaking, ect, and who knows, it may have been the block leaking on the inside and you don't find it, then you blow up all over again.
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Yep. Reman with a full warranty is the way to go. Plug and play and get on down the road.
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If it spun a bearing, ask if the shop is going to chip in, The modern engines are oil cooled, the water cools, the head, the oil, and the top of the liner. To do a complete tear down send out all the parts, you will pay a lot more than a reman, and you get less of a warrenty. You can get a reman with everything, jakes, included. Get them to give you a quote, you will change the clutch, 90% of the time, cross shafts, and bushings, coolant, oil, all the filters. If the rad is dirty get it sent out and cleaned expect it to fail, and needs a recore. Heater hoses, rad hoses, if not silicone.
The engine is made to run at above 190 coolant tempature, to 225, oil temp can go to 240/250 range, that will not hurt it.
Just a thought!
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