I've had my Espar bunk heater for almost 2 years and love it when it works right.... My problem is that on say mid 40 degree F nights when the heater has to cycle on and off it fails to restart.
Now I know I'm not freezing to death but after paying $1,200 to buy it installed, to me it should always work not just on cold as hell nights where it constantly runs... on the times I mention I also leave the cab windows partially down to keep the heater constantly running so it won't cycle.
Am I the only one with this problem?
I make a point to run it off of a jug of kerosene a few times a year to clean the burn chamber but don't know what else to do to get it to consistently stop and start.
Espar problem...unique to me?
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by paul 1052, Nov 11, 2013.
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After posting this it took 3 resets on the switch for it to finally fire up, the first attempts just resulted in a lot of smoke, a few popping noises from the exhaust then it shut off again.
Once it fires up and needs to keep running its dependable as a hammer.
I can't be the only one... -
Sounds like you need to replace the screen that is around the igniter . Mine would just blow white smoke and not start after four years I replaced the screen and it's like a new heater !!!
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I have pretty extensive experience with these things. It's likely not the screen but it should be replaced anyways. It's more likely the small orifice at the top of the tube that the glow pin screws in to. It can plug up if you turn it on with either the intake or exhaust tube plugged with snow or otherwise impeded. When rebuilding this thing be extremely careful with the glow pin. It's worth big bucks.and likely doesn't need to be changed. Do not I repeat do not use the espar tool to remove it. Instead remove the whole eapar unit from the truck and disassemble. Use a wrench from the inside to take out the pin.
For this job you will spend maybe $15 total. buy a new screen and fan side gasket but not the combustion gasket. Instead of the stock gasket use red high temp silicon. The stock gasket splits too easily and will put exhaust into the cab. Also get a new short rubber fuel line and new clamps.
Don't forget to clean that orifice. If the combustion chamber is bad you can grind down thw sides of the three studs to take the plate off to get deeper in there. The combustion tube and heat exchanger shouldn't need to be replaced regardless of what people tell you.
Good luck any questions feel free to ask.RedForeman and ODR Thank this. -
i'm only on my second winter. no problems so far.
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I had bad luck with this unit from the start, the kid that installed it pointed the exhaust pipe up behind the sleeper so it filled with water choking the heater out, the burn chamber was horribly carboned up past the fins. I had a cleaned chamber installed, fixed the exhaust and it did work much better but has always had that restart problem.
I carry a spare glow pin and screen in case it fails otr, when I bought it I was running to Edmonton, Ab. weekly I always like to be ready for a problem.
If the Espar tool isn't good for the glow pin, what should I carry in case I need to change it on the road?
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I think its a 12mm wrench to remove it. Definitely the orifice and no kerosene won't work. It has to beanually scraped clean, its before the combustion. The orifice feeds air to the screen to get combustion going.
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One other thing I learned last winter is that fuzz, lint or dust that would be caught by a filter can accumulate and trigger an overheat sensor. It would start, run for a couple minutes then shutoff.
After calling a TK dealer I took the outside case off and used an airseat blower to clean off the outside and inside of the heating unit... fun thing to happen in Wyoming while the roads are closed. -
Ok that makes a lot of sense, similar to a pilot circuit on a carbeurator to me. I can see my dust, fuzz or whatever problem contributing to that.
I really appreciate the help...thanks. -
We used a 12volt plugin heating blanket in husband's Volvo a few years ago. I think we got it at a Pilot maybe and about 5 yrs ago it was around $19.00. It kept you warm, but did not have a shutoff that worked too well on it, sometimes got too hot. With his truck using it he would usually end up having to turn the truck on to charge the batteries though in the wee hours, I believe we were in snow then so it was colder. We were trying to keep the idling down as much as possible when it was finally cooler out.
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